Places Visited:
Louisiana: Lake Charles, Hackberry, Cameron, Louisiana.
Texas:
Houston, Brenham, Round Top, La Grange & Georgetown, Texas.
Monday,
May 5, 2003
Sam Houston Jones State Park, Lake Charles, Louisiana $12 per-night
full
hookup 30-amp. The sewer at most spots is not really accessible.
We got
an early start on a long scenic drive today. The National
Geographic Guide
to Scenic Highways and Byways and the U.S. Department
of Transportations "Federal
Highway Administration's" publication
America's Byways (All-American Roads
& National Scenic Byways) both
list Louisiana Route 27 as a Scenic Drive.
The scenic drive begins in
Sulphur, 5 miles west of Lake Charles on I-10. Sulphur
derives its
name from huge mineral deposits found in a nearby salt dome. South
of
Sulphur we passed through miles of flat fields before crossing the
Intracoastal
Waterway which runs from west Texas to Florida along the
Gulf coast. We pass
on the west side of Calcasieu Lake, 19 miles long
and 8 miles wide. Calcasieu
Lake is linked to the Gulf by a shipping
channel. Ocean going tankers traverse
the shipping channel all the
way up to the oil refineries around Sulphur and
Lake Charles. On the
south side of the Intracoastal Waterway the landscape
changed
dramatically to brackish tidal marsh with few trees. At this point
you
can look east and see ocean going tankers making their way to and
from the
refineries while on the west side you see oil fields. Then
we passed through
Hackberry, (named for the hackberry tree). Hackberry
is the "blue-crab"
capital of Louisiana but shrimp boats were all we
saw as we passed through.
From Hackberry to the Gulf coast "resort"
town of Holly Beach we
drove through Sabine National Wildlife Refuge.
A tour of the area would not
be complete without a stop at the Sabine
Refuge Visitor's Center to view displays
of wildlife and listen to the
excellent diorama featuring a Cajun man telling
about the wildlife
found in the marsh. Joyce and I thoroughly enjoyed the exhibits
as
Mother did. The visitor's center is one thing you should do if you
are
ever pass this way. Sabine Refuge is the Gulf Coast's largest
waterfowl refuge.
The refuge is the winter home to many of the ducks
and geese that summer in
the prairie lands of mid-America and Canada.
The drive from the Intracoastal
Waterway all the way to Holly Beach is
FLAT wet prairie. Nothing appears to
be more than 5 feet above water
level. You can see from horizon to horizon
across the wet prairie of
marsh grasses and reeds. The drive west from Holly
Beach is along the
Gulf. The beach along here is a stark contrast to Florida
beaches.
South of the highway is the Gulf while on the north side is fenced
in
cattle ranch land for as far as the eye can see. Grass grows right to
the
waters edge.
Holly Beach is "Redneck Riviera" if I have ever
seen one. Several
hundred small beach houses/shacks that look more like fish
camps make
up the community. Traveling east on route 27 from Holly Beach the
land
remains flat as the highway moves inland a bit from the Gulf as
we approach
the port city of Cameron, Louisiana. In Cameron we have
to wait for a free
ferry to transport us across the shipping channel.
Cameron is a base for boats
tending the offshore oil platforms. Crew
boats line the ship channel. In Cameron
we followed a sign that
pointed to an RV-Park located on the Gulf. The RV-Park
appeared to be
operated by the city. It was no more than a huge parking lot
with
electric and water connections located around the perimeter. There
was
a bath house but we did not spot a dump although surely there was
one. From
Cameron we continued east on route 27 to Oak Grove. Oak
Grove is located on
a chenier "French for a high place where oaks
grow" The strip of
land along the road from Oak Grove to Grand
Chenier is an ancient sand dune.
It is now home to the few people
that inhabit this low land. If you are not
on one of the cheniers
down here you are most likely either in the water or
less than a foot
or so from getting wet. Trees only grow on the cheniers or
high
ground near the highway, everything else is a wet prairie. As we head
north
on route 27 to the town of Creole and eventually the metropolis
of Lake Charles
we pass through Cameron Prairie National Wildlife
Refuge. This is another refuge
for wintering water foul. The refuge
is virtually all wet prairie consisting
of water plants and grasses.
This refuge is wetter than Sabine. We pass many
areas with blooming
lily pads. Lotus plants abound but are not blooming. Water
hyacinths,
pickerel weed, wild iris, and a variety of other water plants cover
the
prairie on both sides of the highway. We stopped in the Cameron
Prairie Refuge
Visitor's Center and enjoyed the excellent dioramas
depicting life in the coastal
prairie. If you are ever traveling
through this area make sure that you stop
and enjoy the Visitor's
Center's excellent displays and dioramas. Of course
we had to cross
over the Intracoastal Waterway again on an extremely high bridge
that
gave us an unparalleled observation platform from which to view the
vast
prairie stretching in all directions.
Back in Lake Charles we had lunch
at the Cajun Café a real
"hole-in-the-wall" with super good
food. It is one of those places
where all the workers go for lunch with entrée
and three vegetables
for $5.50. The address is 1317 Broad Street (business-90).
Don't be
scared by the looks of the place, it is the food inside that you want.
Ambience
can come later. Joyce loves one of the signs inside "No
dancin on tables
with spurs on". It does not take much to amuse her.
VBG
Our next
stop was the 300 year old Sallier Oak located at 204 west
Sallier. It is in
the yard of a historical museum. The oak is one of
the most magnificent specimens
in the country. The museum was closed
on Monday. Oh well! The next order of
business was a drive along
shell road that borders the eastern shore of Lake
Charles and contains
a collection of beautiful estates with homes that match
the grandeur.
The remainder of our afternoon was spent back at the RV recuperating
and
preparing for our journey to Houston tomorrow.
Tuesday, May 6, 2003
We
drove 125-miles from Lake Charles, LA to Houston Leisure RV-Resort 601 S. Main
St. Highlands, TX 77562
(281-426-3576) Full hook up 50-amps pool, modem everything
extra.
$22.50
Our goal today was to make it to Houston so Mother could
visit with
her sister that she has not seen in 5-years. The only way to get
to
Houston from Lake Charles is via I-10. That would be the same I-10
that
has been maligned by RV'ers as the worst stretch of highway in
the country.
There is good news and BAD news in the trip. The
stretch of I-10 between Lake
Charles and the Texas line is simply
HORRIBLE. Running between 50 to 55 miles
per hour the motorhome feels
like it is in a violent earthquake. The old concrete
highway should
be condemned. Now for the good news. I-10 in Texas has been
resurfaced
since we were last here in 2001. The ride into Houston on
I-10 was uneventful.
As we cross the border into Texas the exit
number is 878 indicating that I-10
stretches more than 878 miles
across Texas from El Paso in the west to Orange
in the east. Any way
you look at it that is a long way.
Upon arriving
in Houston we called Mother's sister. The remainder of
our day was spent enjoying
relatives.
Wednesday, May 7, 2003
We drove 101-miles from Houston to
Artesian Park/RV Campground 8601 Highway 290 w., Brenham, Texas
979-836-0680
Full hookup 30-amps $16 per-night (veterans get a $5.00
discount thus it is
$11.00)
We started for Brenham around 9:30 this morning heading west on
I-10.
We intended to take the beltway around Houston. Street Atlas and the
GPS
said to take exit 781-B to get on the beltway however, that
information did
not square with interstate signs as we approached the
exit. To make a long
story short we missed our opportunity to take
the beltway around Houston and
were heading downtown on I-10 with no
place to turn around. We swallowed hard
and made lemonade out of
lemons. As it turned out the traffic was not bad and
traffic was not
going all that fast. In about 30-minutes we emerged on the
other side
of Houston none the worse for our experience. So much for all the
horror
stories about traffic in Houston. We lucked out!
We were in Brenham in short
order where we set up the motorhome and
headed downtown to eat lunch at "Must
Be Heaven" a quaint little
sandwich shop that Joyce likes. Now Joyce and
Mother are fans! After
lunch we headed to the Blue Bell Ice Cream factory for
their factory
tour and free ice cream. The Blue Bell tour is always a "home-run".
After
the tour Mother wanted to make sure we would do it again
tomorrow. That was
something all of us could agree on. If you are
around Brenham make sure you
do this tour.
>From the Blue Bell tour we headed to the small community
of
Independence and the Rose Emporium. The Antique Rose Emporium is an
8-acre
retail display garden center. It is landscaped to feature old
garden roses,
native plants, old-fashioned cottage garden perennials,
herbs plus a wildflower
meadow. This is a free and fun place to
visit.
Down the street from
the Rose Emporium we stopped by the Texas Baptist
Historical Center-Museum
and Church. We passed up the museum and only
viewed the church from outside.
This church was organized in 1839,
the earliest Baptist congregation in Texas.
Sam Houston was converted
and baptized by this church in a nearby creek in
1854. Next door was
the original site of Baylor University. Baylor was sponsored
by this
church.
Next on our list was Washington-on-the-Brazos State
Historical Park.
This is where the Texas Declaration of Independence was drafted
and
signed on March 2, 1836. The building where the document was drafted
is
one of the preserved buildings in the park. The park also has a
working homestead
farmstead complete with docents in period costume
cooking with cast iron pots
in a detached primitive kitchen and
farmers tending gardens and livestock.
It is a good learning
experience.
That was our last formal tour for the
day but we took a long scenic
drive through some of the most beautiful country
anywhere on the way
back to our RV. Mother got to see her first scissor tail
fly catcher.
Thursday, May 8, 2003
Trek mileage
Artesian Park/RV
Campground 8601 Highway 290 w., Brenham, Texas
979-836-0680 Full hookup 30-amps
$16 per-night (veterans get a $5.00
discount thus it is $11.00)
Joyce
had us scheduled to tour the Round Top Museum in Round Top,
Texas this morning.
The museum is really a collection of historical
houses from the 1830's to the
1880's. There is also a period barn and
church. In each house is a collection
of furniture, sewing machines,
cooking utensils and other items from the mid
1800s. Behind one of
the houses is an osage orange tree locally called a bois
d'arc
(colloquially "bodarc," "bodock") which is French
for bows because the
Osage Indians used the wood to make bows. A huge pomegranate
bush
with bright orange flowers is prominent on the museum grounds. Mother
liked
the stenciling on the walls inside some of these old homes. In
some rooms the
stenciling was just around the edge as a trim while in
others the whole room
was stenciled resembling modern day wallpaper
patterns. Joyce likes the antique
chairs and benches that were made
for individuals that are her size. Mother
also liked the way some of
the houses were put together with wooden pegs and
how the cracks were
sealed with local mud.
We ate lunch at Royer's.
This is a little restaurant that regularly
hosts upscale crowds from Houston
looking for something special.
Weekends regularly require a 2-hour wait. The
house specialty is
pies. Joyce and Mother both had pieces of pie. The owner
spices many
of his dishes with cilantro. Mother had never knowingly tasted
cilantro.
That changed today. She now knows what cilantro tastes
like. According to her
it will not become a staple at her house.
Mother says that you would never
expect the exciting upscale food in a
place that looked "like that"
on the outside. I loved the signs hand
written by the owner on the walls, counters,
coolers and other items.
Some of the owner's homilies include: On the restroom
wall "This isn't
high school go outside to smoke". On the cooler
outside "beer, wine
and colas on the honor system except cash in advance
for bankers and
lawyers", another near the entrance "if you are in
a hurry go back to
Houston". While there were many others those are the
ones we could
remember.
Mother is becoming accomplished in picking out
cottonwood and post oak
trees.
From Round Top we headed south to La
Grange where we viewed an 1850s
Lutheran Church that has been immaculately
maintained. A huge live
oak tree on the grounds of the court house has been
around since the
1840s when it was the meeting place. Just out of town was
Monument
Hill State Park. The Monument marks the spot where the remains of
the
"black bean massacre" occurred. In one of the battles with the
Mexicans
over 150 Texans were taken prisoner. Santa Anna ordered that
10% be executed.
To carry out the order the Mexicans put 135 white
beans and 15 black beans
in a pot. The prisoners drew beans. The
ones that picked the black beans were
taken into a room where they
were given pencil and paper in order to write
a letter home. Then
they were executed. Years later a group of Texans went
to the site
and recovered the bones. Those remains now reside in a common marble
encasement
at the monument. The view from the top of the hill
overlooking the Colorado
River is awesome. For RV'ers there is a nice
RV-Park within a few blocks of
downtown La Grange with huge pull thru
sites. The name was Colorado Landing
RV-Park 979-968-9465.
Friday, May 9, 2003
We drove 105-miles to Live
Oaks at Berry Creek RV-Park. It is near Georgetown and has
50-amps is the only
redeeming feature of this full hook up park. $15.
We moved the motorhome
from Brenham to Georgetown, Texas via a series
of country roads. The views
along the way were of beautiful ranch
land and rich farming areas. As we approached
Taylor, Texas huge
fields of corn were visible as far as the eye could see
on both sides
of the road. North of Taylor wheat was mixed with the corn. Most
of
the wheat looked ready for harvest. The corn was only about a foot or
so
high. The town of Taylor is noted for Bar B Q but if I had to give
it a nick
name it would be corn-central. Giant silos were what I
remember most about
Taylor. The corn and wheat fields continued all
the way to Georgetown.
Georgetown
is home to Southwestern University. My Mother graduated
from Southwestern back
in the early 40s. After we got the Motorhome
settled into the RV-Park we headed
to the locals favorite "Monument
Café" for lunch. Everyone
in town was eating there. Monument Café is
a monument to simplicity
housed in a plain rectangular building with
glass brick corners. Inside there
is a long counter with stools
opposite the door and steel banded tables with
well worn wooden
chairs. The waitresses are jumping about like a long tailed
cat in a
room full of rocking chairs. The kitchen's chef was serving a unique
creation
"King Ranch Casserole" as the lunch special, Mother and I
ordered.
Always take the advice of the cook! I would have named it
chicken tamales but
"King Ranch Casserole" does sound more
aristocratic. Anyway, it was
great and we would both go for the cooks
special any day.
After lunch
we stopped Southwestern where we met the President and
took a grand tour. Mother
was impressed with all the new
construction. Buildings on campus are constructed
of native
sandstone. Graduation is tomorrow. Students were cleaning out their
dorm
rooms and paying late fees.
The Historic Downtown area of Georgetown is
built around a square
comprised of the Courthouse in the center of the square
like so many
historic towns. The courthouse and historic buildings on the square
are
also constructed of sandstone. The town has done an admirable job
of preserving
old homes and buildings.
Mike & Joyce Hendrix