Sky City Acoma Pueblo
May 2, 2007.
We moved the motorhome to exit 108 on I-40 where we stopped in the
Dancing Eagle RV-Park next to Dancing Eagle Casino and across from
the Dancing Eagle Travel Plaza. We stopped here so we could visit
the Sky City Acoma Pueblo 12-miles south of exit 108 on New Mexico
23. Dancing Eagle RV-Park has 50-amps and water for $10. An open wifi
signal is available from either the casino or travel plaza. Dry camping
spots were available at both Dancing Eagle Casino and across the street
at Dancing Eagle Travel Plaza (truck stop).
Sky City Pueblo of Acoma
This is where we are headed. This is our destination today.
Sky City Pueblo of Acoma
We spot Sky City at a distance perched atop this mesa.
This mesa has been home to the Acoma for 850 years, possibly making
it the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in the United States.
Sky City looms 370 feet above the desert floor. For almost 2,000
years, Sky City has served as the physical and spiritual homeland
for the Acoma people. The history of the Acoma people and the Pueblo
dates back to as early as 1100 A.D.
This information was presented in the NW New Mexico Visitor Center
in Grants so I guess it may be accurate. I was hesitant to state emphatically
that the Pueblo of Acoma (Sky City) is the oldest continuously inhabited
village in the U.S. but at least this source seems to agree.
Most Acoma Pueblo families do not live on the Mesa but reside somewhere
in the valley like this place.
Adobe building on Sky City Pueblo of Acoma
Sky City has over 300 structures made of adobe (mud brick) and sand
stone...or a combination of both. All homes are owned by Acoma females
who pass them on to their youngest daughters. Even though most of
the Acoma people don't live at Sky City full time, they return for
various special cultural occasions to celebrate at their ancestral
homes.
This is one of the newer structures on the mesa. I can tell that
by the Vigas. The vigas in this structure were purchased from a modern
lumber supply company. Older vigas were made of logs.
Of course this structure might have been remodeled with new vigas
at some point.
Adobe brick construction Sky City Pueblo of Acoma
Several different methods of construction are represented here. On
the bottom is sandstone construction, with adobe applied between the
sandstone blocks as a form of mortar. The top portion is adobe bricks
mortared together with adobe. These adobe bricks need to have a new
coat of adobe plaster applied.
Bell Tower on church at Sky City Pueblo of Acoma
This is the bell tower on the church built between 1629 and 1641
by the Acoma Indians under the direction of Franciscan Padre Juan
Ramirez.
Don't even let those dates of 1629 to 1641 slip by without putting
them into perspective with other events happening in the world.
Jamestown, the first permanent English colony on the continent was
founded in Virginia in 1607.
Quebec was founded in Canada as the first permanent French colony
on the continent -- that would be 1608.
English Pilgrims land at Plymouth, Massachusetts in 1620.
During the 1650's horses stolen from ranches in New Mexico begin
to transform the culture of the Plains, enabling Native Americans
to hunt buffalo more efficiently and to range farther in battle with
their enemies. Within another generation the horse will spread from
New Mexico through the region west of the Rocky Mountains to the tribes
of the Northwest. You will remember that Lewis & Clark purchased
horses from tribes of the Northwest on their epic journey across the
continent in 1804-1805.
This should give you a good idea of how old this Catholic Church
building is. Next you can marvel that is still standing and in use
today. Can you think of a building back east that dates to anywhere
near this Church?
Bell Tower and church at Sky City Pueblo of Acoma
This is the church made of adobe with walls 12' thick at the bottom.
It is cool in the church because of the thick walls. Massive pine
logs span the width of the church to support the ceiling. We couldn't
take pictures inside the church or I would have shown these vigas
and the cross pieces.
Our docent explained how their ancestors hauled earth and stone,
in fact all building material for the church, up to the 375 foot-high
mesa from the valley below. The massive vigas (ceiling beams) were
hauled from Mt. Taylor 30-miles away, on the backs of many men. Remember
that this church was constructed between 1621 and 1649. It took that
long because it was truly a monumental endeavor to construct. The
huge vigas (ceiling beams) span across the top of this structure from
side to side. In other words those are massive beams probably 60 to
80-feet in length. Since we could not take pictures inside the church
there is no way I can describe them except to say that they were placed
across the side walls on what looked to be 24" to 36" centers.
Bottom line, there has to be 30 to 50 of these massive vigas (ceiling
beams).
My mind was in an "oh, my gosh" state contemplating the
logistics involved with transporting those massive logs over 30-miles.
Then the logistics of getting those beams from the valley floor to
the top of this mesa 375' above the valley floor. I guess it was child's
play to place those vigass on top of the walls considering what they
had just accomplished by transporting the logs from Mt. Taylor to
the top of this Mesa. Totally unbelievable yet it is here for all
to see and marvel at.
Periodically, church members re-plaster the church's dirt floor with
dirt that has been worn and swept up, so that the footprints of their
ancestors remain in the church.
The outside walls of the church must be re-plastered periodically
with fresh adobe in order to maintain it.
Sandstone and adobe construction at Sky City Pueblo of Acoma
Since these buildings date from the 1600's a number of different
construction methods are evident. To begin with it appears buildings
were constructed with sandstone. Later the sandstone pieces were held
together with a mortar made of mud. Later came adobe. Note how these
buildings have more modern windows and doors. This building even has
smoke stacks for wood burning stoves.
Some of the buildings still had micah windows. Micah is a flat sheet
like rock that is opaque. I guess this is what people used for window
material before glass.
Outhouse at Sky City Pueblo of Acoma
There is no running water on the mesa. Out houses are still used.
This is an old model.
Outhouses of Sky City Pueblo of Acoma
These out houses are a combination of new and old.
Horno Sky City Pueblo of Acoma
This is an oven or horno in Spanish. It is used to cook bread. Yes
this one is an operational horno. In fact some of the residents were
selling apple and cherry pastries. Joyce says they were fry bread
wraps of some sort. Whatever, they were cooked in a horno like this
one.
Keep in mind there is no electricity or running water on this mesa.
The 30 or so families that still reside on the mesa use Coleman lanterns
for light and burn wood for heat.
Adobe & rock construction Sky City Pueblo of Acoma
This was a 3rd story porch. The wood pieces seemed to date this particular
structure.
Many families reside elsewhere, but maintain a home on the mesa.
Adobe brick construction Sky City Pueblo of Acoma
All of these buildings have modern fire place chimneys. Note the
glass in some of the structures. One building has a modern wood porch
with lumber that looks like it came from a lumber yard. In the old
days they used to drink the water that gathered in these catchments
or cisterns. It rained hard last night thus the muddy water in this
catchment.
Adobe construction Sky City Pueblo of Acoma
The residents of this building have covered it with a fresh layer
of adobe or plaster. This is one of the nicer buildings on the mesa.
Still it is heated with wood and Coleman lanterns are used for light
and there is no running water.
Vega roof supports Sky City Pueblo of Acoma
This building has replaced the adobe mortar with what appears to
be cement. The traditional adobe roof has been replaced with rolled
roofing. vigass still support the new style roof.
I think that is Enchanted Mesa in the background.
Adobe construction Sky City Pueblo of Acoma
Some buildings are being maintained while others are not maintained
nearly as well.
Sandstone & Adobe construction Sky City Pueblo of Acoma
The Acoma are a matriarchal society, with a twist...the youngest
daughter inherits everything. After all it is the youngest daughter
that most likely will be the best able to care for aging parents.
Vigas can be seen protruding from the ceilings of these buildings.
Adobe brick construction Sky City Pueblo of Acoma
These buildings are constructed with sun dried adobe bricks. Note
the log vigas protruding from the walls. This section of buildings
is 3 stories high.
Sandstone construction Sky City Pueblo of Acoma
This building is constructed with sandstone but on this particular
building I do not see adobe mud being used as mortar. It is a rather
old building as evidenced by the log vigas
View from Sky City Pueblo of Acoma
View from Sky City mesa looking down on the valley where natives
of this mesa would grow crops of corn and beans.
If you are looking for more information on Sky City and the Acoma
people try calling the Acoma Visitor's Center at 800-747-0181.
This is a meshing of the old and the new. The windmill represents
the old while the steel tank represents the new. We saw this on the
Acoma Indian Reservation near Sky City.
Until next time remember how good life is.
Mike & Joyce Hendrix
