Places Visited:
Louisiana: Houma, Thibodaus, Bayou Du Large, Theriot,
Falgout Canal,
Cocodrie, Bayou Black, Chackbay
Tuesday, November 26,
2002
Hideaway Ponds Recreational Resort (50-amps, water, sewage and cable)
$20.25.
As
always Joyce had a full day planned for us. The first stop on her
agenda was
at the "Wildlife Gardens" in Gibson, Louisiana. We had a
wonderful
time and met Betty Provost, the owner and her mother Cora.
By chance we had
seen Betty the other night when we went dancing at
the Jolly Inn. Betty is
in her late 50s. She lost her husband to a
massive heart attack 7-years ago.
The wildlife gardens was his hobby
for about 20-years. Now it is Betty's income.
She has an enclosed
duck pond with a large variety of exotic ducks. Betty's
late husband
used to carve and paint ducks. He used the ducks in the enclosure
as
models. Peacocks, guineas, geese, goats, chickens and a variety of
other
critters freely roam the premises. Inside the fenced "swamp
tour"
Betty has a variety of animals including; wild pigs, raccoons, a
huge snapping
turtle, deer, bob cat, bunches and bunches of alligators
and even a 9' and
13' momma and papa 'gator. The Wildlife Gardens
complex also has 4-cute cabins
nestled in a natural swamp with raised
walking paths to reach them. From the
porch of the cabins you can sit
and watch 5' alligators, fish and turtles.
The porches on these
cabins have chicken wire fencing around them to keep the
small
alligators and turtles off. I suppose it would be a good place to
have
your morning coffee with the 'gators. These cabins are the
lodging part of
Betty's Bed & Breakfast. In the B&B's breakfast area
and gift shop
they display a variety of stuffed animals, carved ducks,
rattlesnake skins,
and a host of other native items that will interest
everyone. You can get more
information on the "wildlife Gardens" at
www.wildlifegardens.com
or 504-575-3676. Tell Betty how much we
enjoyed the place.
After the
wildlife gardens experience it was time for lunch. We
headed to Politz's Restaurant
in Thibodaux. Politz's had been
recommended by a number of individuals as "the"
place to do lunch. We
found Politz's to be charming, a decent place to eat,
but nothing
either of us would rave about. On their lunch menu they had a choice
of
entrees one of which was "Marlinton with ground meat". I had to
ask
for an explanation of marlinton since this was not in my memory
bank. The sweet
waitress explained that it was a vegetable that grew
on a vine much like a
cucumber. Both a male and female plant is
required to produce marlinton fruit/vegetable.
The waitress told us
the fruit looked like a pear with knots/warts. I had to
experience
it. Marlinton is certainly something I have never tasted before
(never
heard of it either). After consuming my marlinton with ground
meat I can say
that it was OK but not something that I would order
again. There was nothing
wrong with it but it wasn't spectacular
either. Back at the motorhome with
access to my computer and
5-different encyclopedias on disk and 3-dictionaries
on disk I cannot
locate the word marlinton. However, on a disk of 1-million
recipes
there is a recipe for marlinton casserole that calls for 3 to 5 medium
sized
marlinton pealed. That leads me to believe that there is
actually such a thing
but Webster, Grolier, Hutchinson's, World Book,
Encarta - you get the idea,
have never heard of marlinton either. Ok
readers feel free to share what you
know about marlinton with me.
After our dining experience we headed to
the Jean Lafitte National
Historical Park in Thibodaux. The Jean Lafitte National
Historical
Park and Preserve is a system of six sites in six different Louisiana
cities.
In Eunice they have the Prairie Acadian Cultural Center,
Lafayette has the
Acadian Cultural Center, Thibodaux has the Wetlands
Acadian Cultural Center,
The French Quarter has "the French Quarter
Center", Barataria Preserve
is located south of New Orleans and
finally Chalmette Battlefield and National
Cemetery is located in
Chalmette 6-miles southeast of New Orleans. We were
experiencing the
Wetlands Acadian Cultural Center in Thibodaux. What better
place to
have the Wetlands Acadian Cultural Center than in Thibodaux near the
Confluence
of Bayou Lafourche and Bayou Terrebonne two of the
important bayous in Cajun
Country. In addition to the first class
exhibits we watched several videos.
One was a 20-minute video of
Cajuns participating in the ancient sport of fishing
with your hands.
Just when I thought I had seen it all there is this video
of wild and
crazy Cajuns wading around in these bayous up to their armpits
in
muddy water. When they feel a tree stump or log with their feet they
submerge
and feel around the stump or log with their hands. These
crazy guys caught
everything from 20-pound catfish to large snapping
turtles. I kept waiting
for them to reach under a log and come out
with a huge alligator hanging off
their arm. I have never seen
anything like it. They have to be absolutely out
of their minds even
get in the water much less walk around in it poking their
hands around
stumps.
What a day, I can't get those guys out of my mind.
They were hand
fishing for fun and there is no way I would even get in that
water
much less-well, you get the idea.
My neighbor Jon back in Pensacola
wrote to tell me that his memory is
better than mine. Remember last week when
I wrote about the Song
"Battle of New Orleans"? Well he remembered
more of the lyrics than I
did and was kind enough to share them. Thanks Jon,
you win the prize.
Here is what Jon remembers. Possibly some of you will be
able to
remember the song now:
"In 1813 we took a little trip...
along
with Colonel Jackson down the Mighty Mississipp...
We took a little bacon and
we took a little beans....
And we fought the Bloody British at the town of
New Orleans"
Chorus:
"Oh- they ran through the briars and
they ran through the bushes...
They ran through some places where a rabbit
couldn't go... They ran so
fast that the hounds couldn't catch 'em.... Ran
down the Mississippi
to the Gulf of Mexico". ---------------- Isn't a
memory a great thing
to have???
Thanks again to Jon for pulling that
little ditty out of the memory
bank.
Wednesday, November 27, 2002
Hideaway
Ponds Recreational Resort (50-amps, water, sewage and cable)
$20.25.
Our
travel agenda today took us along the bayous south of Houma. Houma
is really
the southernmost "city" in this area. South of Houma
populations
live along the ribbons of roads that follow the natural
levies lining both
sides of most bayous heading toward the Gulf.
Historically water from the Mississippi
river flowed down these bayous
to the Gulf. Annually during the spring flood
season the bayous would
overflow their banks and deposit a fresh deposit of
soil thus building
up the natural levies along the banks of these bayous. As
populations
started residing along the bayous they wanted relief from the annual
flood
and the damage it inflicted. The corps of engineers constructed
levies along
the Mississippi River to cut off flow from the
Mississippi. Now water just
sits in these historic bayous. Now they
look like wide deep ditches. Around
Houma if you are not on a levee
you are more than likely in a swamp. Note that
a swamp is a wetland
dominated by trees. South of Houma if you are not located
within one
city block of a levee you will be in a marsh, a marsh is a wetland
dominated
by grasses. As the bayous approach the Gulf Dredging has
deepened them to facilitate
oil industry equipment easy access to the
Gulf in large ships and boats.
>From
Houma we head south on state road 315 following Bayou Du Large
through the
communities of Theriot and du Large. Around Theriot we
turn east on the Falgout
Canal Road and head across the marsh to the
community of Dulac. As we navigate
this 5-mile swath of eerie
wetlands we are witnessing an environmental nightmare.
On both sides
of Falgout Canal Road as far as we can see are the bleached trunks
of
dead cypress trees. A once great swamp is no more. When the
navigation
channel was dredged to accommodate commercial traffic
saltwater invaded this
freshwater swamp. The saltwater has destroyed
the freshwater animal and plant
life leaving behind this ghostly
landscape.
As we neared Dulac a large
flock of white pelicans were feeding. Joyce
and I are accustomed to seeing
brown pelicans. The white pelicans
were a treat. White pelicans are about twice
the size of the common
brown pelican. The marsh around Dulac consists of rozo
cane (tall
marsh cane). The variety of marsh grass changes with the different
salinity
levels and depth of water/soil. Some of the grasses are tall
while others hug
the ground.
The next community of significance is the fishing community
of
Cocodrie. A community of second homes all constructed on pilings and
marinas
catering to the sports fishing industry sums up Cocodrie.
There is even a decent
motel. The charter fishing industry out of
Cocodrie is based on 25 to 30 foot
center console boats powered by
twin 225hp outboard motors.
We ate lunch
at A Bears's in Houma. A Bear's is one of the
recommended places to eat in
Houma. We found it to be OK but nothing
to rave about.
On the way back
home we stopped at a roadside vendors stand to
purchase some kumquats and satsumas.
The 76-year old vendor was
selling his own product. He had a few acres citrus
trees located on
a piece of high ground behind his house. I questioned him
about what
a satsuma was. He stammered around and finally settled on a cross
between
an orange and a tangerine. When I got home the encyclopedia
said satsumas were
"Small, hardy, loose - skinned oranges of the
tangerine family, originally
from Japan. It withstands cold conditions
well." Webster's dictionary
adds, "--the fruit is largely seedless".
He told us to eat the kumquats
peel and all.
Just down the road from our current RV-Park -- Hideaway Ponds
Recreational
Resort-is Bob's Bayou Black Marina. They have a swamp
tour operating out of
the marina as well as 8 full hook-up RV sites
for just $15 per-night. When
we stopped by to check out the RV-sites
we watched duck hunters returning to
the marina with limits of duck.
One group of several young boys and two men
said they had been at
their camp 25-miles out in the swamp/marsh for the last
few days. They
had a cooler full of ducks. One of the men said they would have
had
more but hawks flew off with several of their downed ducks before they
could
retrieve them and several more were devoured by alligators
before they got
to them. That sounds like a fun trip. Inside the
marina building they had pictures
of boats returning from the
September Alligator hunt. Boats were loaded with
5 or so large
alligators each. They do not clean the alligators at the marina.
It
seems that the hunters take them up the road to an alligator farm and
sell
them there.
It was cold when we left out this morning and continues to
get colder
as the day progresses.
I just realized that I have not covered
one of the most
important/interesting attractions of the area. A number of
quality
swamp tours are located between our RV-Park and the city of Houma.
They
are all located along Bayou Black northwest of Houma. Some of
the ones available
are; Annie Miller Swamp Tour, A Cajun Man's Swamp
Tour, the Swamp Tour out
of Bob's Bayou Black Marina and others. We
did not do any of these swamp tours
this trip but we have done them
before and they are good especially if you
need to get a flavor of
what a swamp is like. At this time of year alligators
are spending
much of their time hibernating under water. Many of the flowers
and
plants so prolific during the spring and summer have died back. That
is
why we have not participated in one of these swamp tours. We will
do them when
we are here in either the spring or fall.
Thursday, November 28, 2002 (Thanksgiving
Day)
Hideaway Ponds Recreational Resort (50-amps, water, sewage and cable)
$20.25.
This
is Thanksgiving Day.
Some of you may feel sorry for us being on the road
for Thanksgiving.
Save your pity. On Sunday, when we arrived at the Hideaway
Ponds
Recreational Resort the Camp Host invited us to join his family and
friends
for Thanksgiving dinner. Joyce and I were apprehensive about
joining them at
first, but after they kept reminding us day after day
we finally accepted when
we realized that we were not the only ones
from the RV-Park that were invited.
As it turns out 4 couples joined
us as we followed Stanley and Vergie Glenn
to the feast. I am a
little slow to pick up on things. The other invitees from
the RV-Park
are snowbirds that winter in this RPI-Park; we were the only couple
not
spending the winter in the park. The others had experienced this
feast before
and were looking forward to it. All of us followed
Stanley as he led us through
the swamps and cane fields to the
community of Chackbay located about 6-miles
north of Thibodaux. We
pull into what amounts to a fairground then under a
large steel
pavilion with cement floor complete with stage. Next to the pavilion
is
a large indoor kitchen and dining complex complete with commercial
cooking
kettles, large preparation tables and such. We learn later
this is the facility
where they host the Louisiana State Gumbo
Festival. As it turns out Stanley
is related to the entire community
of Chackbay one way or another. It is the
Chackbay Volunteer fire
department that puts on the Gumbo Festival and as luck
would have it
Stanley has several son-in-laws plus a son that are big in the
Volunteer
Fire Department. All of Stanley's married children have
spouses with parents
and brothers and sisters and their children. All
of these folks are here with
covered dishes. The Thanksgiving feast
we partook in was a conglomeration of
all these CAJUN cooks each
trying to outdo the other. When they started piling
all those vittles
on that long table I knew I had just entered heaven and had
a front
row seat. Have mercy on my soul and body! Like a kid in a candy
store
does not even come close in comparison.
Wow! What a day!
No one in
the world can pick family and friends like Stanley can.
Everyone was so wonderful
and generous.
While we were there the locals invited us to return on December
13, 14
& 15 for the Gumbo Festival. It seems that the Festival usually
held
in October was rained out this year and they rescheduled it to
mid-December.
Now Joyce and I are thinking about modifying our plans
to stop by here. The
people were so great and they are the ones that
will cook the Gumbo, etouffee,
piquant and other dishes for the
festival. They said they would put me to work
in the kitchen. That
would be fun.
Now I have to talk Joyce into adjusting
our schedule. So much to do
and so little time.
We have passed Chester's
Cypress Inn in the settlement of Donner
located on state road 20 very near
where we are staying in Hideaway
Ponds on a number of times now. Multiple locals
have told us to stop
by there for the best fried chicken, fried frogs legs
and mounds of
crispy onion rings. A 16-year old girl said it was her favorite
place
for a hamburger. But it is the frog legs that we keep hearing about.
A
sign outside says, "If the Colonel had our recipe he'd be a
general".
We wanted to try it but just did not have time. If you
pass this way stop in
and try their chicken or frog legs.
Mike & Joyce Hendrix