Places Visited:
Florida: O'Leno SP, High Springs, Ichetucknee Springs
SP, St Joseph's
Peninsula SP Cape San Blas, St Andrews SP Panama City Beach
Monday,
August 19, 2002
O'Leno State Park; High Springs, FL. (a wee bit northwest of
Gainesville)
We
got up and headed 68 miles to Oviedo where we stopped to visit with
friends
James, Jennifer and Jonah Young. James grew up around our
house. Joyce and
I laugh about James going on about as many vacations
with us as our son Jeff.
Back in the days when I had rental
properties James would ride with us on Saturdays
when we did yard work
and other maintenance. Now James has the Chic Fillet
franchise in
Oviedo. I'd say James has graduated big time. I suppose he learned
what
he DID NOT what to do for the rest of his life when he was
cleaning up rental
apartments.
We got to see their 12-month old little boy, Jonah for the first
time.
He is such a cutie pie. They also have a huge well-behaved, lovable
Labrador
retriever. James has done good and we are proud of him.
After our visit
with them it was back on the road. The next hour or
so was spent negotiating
the suburbs of metropolitan northern Orlando
as we made our way across the
central part of the state. Finally,
between Tavares and Leesburg we were free
of the wall-to-wall traffic
that now characterizes metropolitan Orlando.
We
are heading to O'Leno State Park because we want to take a tube
trip down the
river at Ichetucknee Springs and O'Leno is the closest
place that has a campground
where we can stay in our motorhome. O'Leno
was once (mid-1800s) a prosperous
town along the old road between St.
Augustine and Tallahassee. It died when
the railroad took traffic
away. The town, now the park, was purchased by the
State in the early
1930s and was developed by the CCC and the WPA (Works Progress
Authority).
O'Leno
State Park is located on the banks of the scenic and unique
Santa Fe River,
a tributary of the Suwannee River. Within the park,
the Santa Fe disappears
and flows underground for more than three
miles before it again becomes a surface
stream. That is the unique
part of this park. Several sinkholes are also on
the property.
A suspension bridge spans the river inside the park. The suspension
bridge
was built by the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps) in the late
1930s. At the
foot of the bridge we read a plaque that said something
about the bridge being
the first federally funded bridge on the road
leading from St. Augustine to
Tallahassee. Obviously the first bridge
was replaced by the suspension bridge
built by the CCC in the 1930s.
The suspension bridge was only wide enough for
two people to walk
across. Automobiles or horse and buggies could not cross
the bridge.
A horse and rider could negotiate it so I suppose it was built
to
accommodate walkers and those riding horses. The bridge now serves as
a
viewpoint to gaze up and down the Santa Fe and to transport
individuals to
a nature trail on the other side of the river.
The town of Keno (keno is
a game of chance) formed on the western side
of the bridge in the mid-1800s.
When religion reached the town the
name was changed to Leno. Leno has the distinction
of being the end
of the line for the first telegraph set up to link Florida
with the
outside world. Now they are lucky to have cell-phone coverage. I
have
not read why they changed Leno to O'Leno but I suppose there is a
good reason
for that change also. Some Irish probably settled in the
area and they couldn't
say just "Leno".
Upon getting to the park the first thing we
had to did was experience
the suspension bridge built by the CCC then it was
off to view where
the river disappeared underground. Now we have seen where
the river
disappears underground. To me it looks like the river flows into
a
sinkhole because the end of the river is a big circle making it look
very
much like a cul-de-sac common in residential neighborhoods. The
river does
not form a whirlpool or anything as it sinks underground.
The flow just starts
slowing down. The surface of the last several
hundred yards of the river is
covered with water hyacinths. I had
expected a big deal where the river went
underground something like
the water exiting a bathtub but it was not to be.
The Santa Fe
reminds us of rivers in the Hill Country of Texas. It is not very
big,
limestone boulders litter the sides and a single row of cypress
trees line
each bank.
While walking we were able to observe a group of Coopers Hawks.
They
normally prey on songbirds but these seemed to have found a park full
of
gray squirrels. This is as close as we have ever gotten to Coopers
Hawks. They
were creating an incredible cacophony, from high in the
trees that had songbirds
and squirrels on edge. Blue jays were adding
to the discord as they antagonized
"the enemy".
Tuesday, August 20, 2002
Joseph State Park; near
Port St. Joe, FL. Site #41 in the Gulf Breeze
Campground.
This was a
full day plus some. Our plan was to get up early and float
down the Ichetucknee
River, then jump in the motorhome and continue
our jaunt to St. Joe State Park,
200-miles to the west. We got up
early, settled in our Saturn and drove around
inside O'Leno State Park
looking at deer. Deer were plentiful as Joyce and
I try to see who
could spot the most. The coopers hawks and blue jays were
already
caterwauling at each other. Then we headed to Ichetucknee Springs
State
Park. Before we get to the springs we stop and rent tubes. Our
vendor ties
the big yellow double tube to the top of our car and we
head off. At the State
Park the gate attendant informs us we are the
first tubers today. Obviously
most people wait until later in the day
to go tubing. We drive to the big parking
lot (there are paces for
RV's) untie the tube and head to what they call a
"tram" with our
double tube. Before we board the tram we start talking
with several
park employees and volunteers. One of them looks familiar.
Simultaneously
Joyce and I say "Pete Jones"?
It is Pete and he is stunned, then
he recognizes us underneath our
hats and sunglasses. Pete and I met on the
Internet communicating
about RV's 3 or 4 years ago. Then we met again, completely
by chance,
in the RV Park on Naval Air Station Pensacola three years ago. Last
summer
Joyce and I visited Pete and his wife Fay in Nails Creeks State
Park in Texas
where they were volunteering. Since then we have been
communicating back and
forth via e-mail. Earlier this year they were
working in Guadalupe River State
Park in Texas. That is where we
thought they were. Joyce and I were going to
visit them in April when
we were heading west and had to return to Pensacola
when Kathryn went
into labor 3-months early. It turns out Pete and Fay also
had an
emergency and had to come to Florida to take care of an elderly parent
that
was not far from Ichetucknee Springs. They had not written since
arriving at
Ichetucknee Springs so this chance meeting was a total
surprise. Joyce and
I are on a tight schedule and have to be in St.
Joseph State Park tonight because
we have a scalloping date with Pat &
Louie in the morning. Otherwise, we
would have stayed another night
and dined with Pete and Fay. Joyce and I are
torn, we want to stay
and visit with Pete and Fay but we have plans.
Joyce
and I did the 2-hour float instead of the 4-hour float. It was
great. The water
was crystal clear and ice-cold. Actually it is 72
degrees but it feels like
ice when the temperature is in the 90s. A
series of springs inside the State
Park feed the Ichetucknee River
with 233 million gallons of water per-day normally.
This area has
been in drought conditions for 4-years and the springs are only
delivering
around 175 million gallons of water per-day now. We never
saw or heard anyone
on the river. We floated under a canopy of giant
cypress trees past hardwood
hammocks and swamps in complete silence.
Later in the day things on the river
liven up considerably. In fact
the park limits the number of tubers on the
river to 2,250 at one
time. When we got back to our car the parking lot was
filling with
arriving tubers.
The entire float was pristine. We did not
see trash of any kind. The
water is cold but you get used to it. Limestone
outcroppings and
cypress knees line both banks. Fish are swimming in the crystal
clear
water flowing from deep within the Florida Aquifer. Ichetucknee is
the
third largest spring in Florida. The Ichetucknee River flows for
6-miles where
it merges with the Santa Fe River as it flows into the
Suwannee River that
flows into the Gulf.
As we exit the river there is a place to put our rented
float. Then
we catch the tram back to our car.
Ichetucknee Springs is
the nexus of the State Park. They have a great
operation that consist of operating
a group of "trams" that transport
throngs of tubers from the parking
area to the start of the float trip
then pick everyone up at the finish and
return them to their
automobiles. For those of you visiting Florida with children
or
grandchildren this would be an awesome stop. Kids will have as much
fun
here as anywhere else you take them. If you are looking for it on
a map the
springs are located on highway-27 southeast of the
intersection of I-10 &
I-95. It will be a kick in the shorts for you
grandparents also. If you do
not see Ichetucknee Springs State Park
on your map it is located about 4-miles
west of Ft. White on highway
27.
Back at the motorhome we hook-up the
Saturn and head to St. Joe. Those
of you that follow us know about the Chaparral
Steak House Restaurant
in Perry. You also know that we are NOT going to drive
past the
Chaparral without stopping. Well we arrived there and turned into
the
Winn Dixie parking lot. We park in the Winn Dixie parking lot and
walk
down the street to the Chaparral Steak House because I am
tentative about pulling
the motorhome and car into Chaparral's parking
lot. The Winn Dixie parking
lot has a half-acre of empty parking they
save just for us. As usual the Chaparral
gives us our
"country-cookin" fix and we leave completely satiated.
We arrive at St. Joe in time for Joyce to grab her lawn chair and head
to
the beach. Sitting on the beach watching the sun go down is one of
Joyce's
favorite things to do and the sunset today is beautiful.
We are both wondering
"if it gets any better"? It is a rough life;
but someone has to do
it.
Wednesday, August 21, 2002
St. Joseph State Park; near Port St. Joe,
FL. Site #41 in the Gulf
Breeze Campground.
We are in a wonderful location
next to the Gulf . St. Joe State Park
has two campgrounds, Gulf Breeze Campground
with 59 sites and Shady
Pines Campground with 60 sites. Both are nice and both
offer beach
access. Gulf Breeze Campground is located a few feet from the Gulf
while
Shady Pines Campground is located a few hundred feet from the
Gulf. When we
were here a few weeks ago the place was busy. Now it
is only half full. School
has started.
We get on Pat & Louie's boat and head to the scalloping
grounds in St.
Joe Bay. The water was murky in the first three places we tried
then
Louie found some clear water. In the clean water we quickly got our
limit.
When scalloping in St. Joe Bay we see lots of conchs, whelks,
starfish,
sea urchins and live sand dollars while looking for
scallops. Years ago we
used to keep some of the beautiful conch and
whelks. Now it is against the
law to take a live conch or whelk. On
the boat we watch pelicans and osprey
diving into the shallow water
around us while mullet and redfish jump and ripple
the surface around
the boat. Observing nature in and on St. Joe Bay is a remarkable
experience.
Back
on shore Pat and Louie got a phone call with bad news and had to
pack dress
clothes and leave the Cape. Joyce and I returned to the
campground in the State
Park where Joyce got to enjoy another
wonderful sunset. In addition to watching
the sunset Joyce decided to
cook. So those of you wondering, she did cook at
least one time this
month and I am here to report that it was good. In a pinch
she can
come to our rescue when a restaurant is not handy.
Birders visiting
Cape San Blas should look for common ground dove in
the campground areas and
around the dunes. We have never seen as many
common ground dove as we have
around the Gulf Breeze campground area
in the State Park. Look for Eurasian
Collared Dove along the Cape
road leading to the State Park. Along the same
drive look for osprey
in the tall pines. An eagle nest can be seen in a tall
pine snag on
the waters edge when looking south from the stone jetty along
that
same road. During the fall and winter eagles utilize that nest. In
January
and February you can see the parents bringing the youngsters
food. In February
the young eagles are fledging and almost always
visible atop the nest. During
the summer eagles have migrated north.
Thursday, August 22, 2002
St.
Andrews State Park, Panama City Beach, FL. Site #74 on the water
Joyce took
a walk on the beach before we connected up and headed to
Panama City and St.
Andrews State Park.
We stopped by my parent's house and picked them up
and took them for a
ride in the motorhome to St. Andrews State Park. After
getting the
motorhome setup we toured the State Parks RV facilities then headed
to
the Captain's Table Restaurant in the old community of St. Andrews.
The
Captain's Table is in our opinion the best restaurant in the area
to get fresh
local seafood. It seems everyone else is selling frozen
stuff from Sam's. For
$7.95 we had the daily lunch special consisting
of oysters, shrimp and two
nice pieces of grouper. Someone told me
that was a $14.95 meal at night. The
place was packed with locals on
their lunch hour. When visiting Panama City
Beach this is the place
to get your fresh local seafood.
The owner came
by and spoke with us and nearly everyone else in the
place. He said that Florida
Senator Bob Graham had eaten lunch there
yesterday. He told us one of his waitresses
came to tell him someone
important and famous was eating in the restaurant.
When he asked the
waitress who it was she said she could not remember his name
but
everyone in the restaurant was shaking his hand. For those of you not
from
Florida Bob Graham is a former Florida Governor and is now
Florida's Senior
US Senator. As far as United States Senators go Bob
is Chairman of the Security
Committee as well as being one of the
ranking members of the US Senate. Guess
what color hair the waitress
had? The first 3 guesses do not count. As you
can tell I cannot
believe someone in Florida would not recognize Bob Graham.
I wonder
if she knows anyone named Bush?
Thursday, August 22, 2002
St.
Andrews State Park, Panama City Beach, FL. Site #74 on the water
There was
nothing to write about today.
Friday, August 23, 2002
Trek mileage: 36,997
ending 37997 drove 100 miles today
Back home in Pensacola Florida
We
returned to Pensacola today.
That is all until we hit the road again. mike
Mike
& Joyce Hendrix