Places visited:
Texas: Sonora, Junction, Monahans, Balmorhea, Pecos & Ft. Davis

Wednesday, May 9, 2001
South Llano River State Park Junction, TX 1-915-446-3994

This was our day to do something different. Neither of us is
particularly interested in caves and caverns. However, the Caverns of
Sonora are about 60-miles west of here and are acknowledged by experts
to be "the most beautiful known cave in the world". We were not
disappointed. It is privately owned and the owners are serious about
protecting the cave and what is in it. Your tour group is limited to
12 so the group leader can watch everyone and make sure that no one
touches anything. As we leisurely strolled with our guide we
witnessed a subterranean wonderland filled with glittering,
crystal-like stalagmites and stalactites. Sixty million years in the
making, these delicate formations are still active and continue to
change shape and size at their own unhurried pace. According to the
National Speleological Society the Caverns of Sonora are "considered
to be one of the most beautiful and unusual caves in the United States
and are a stunning example of some of nature's most awe-inspiring
creations. In addition to the cave they had six or so peacocks
strutting around the premises as well as a group of barn swallows with
nests under the eves of the main building, all things considered it is
a pretty neat place.

For RV'ers traveling west on I-10 the cave is located about 6-miles
south if you take exit-392. There is an RV Park at the caverns and
plenty of parking. The rate for water and electricity was $13.00.
They did not provide a dump station since they do not want it seeping
into the cavern, a good idea, in my opinion. There is a dump station
on I-10 at the rest area about a mile east of exit 392. So it does
not make much difference. I mention this since it may be a good lunch
stop or overnight opportunity for anyone passing through the area.

Texas, with over 1.1million goats, produces 92% of the country's
mohair which translates into 42% of the world supply making Texas the
greatest producer of mohair in the world. Sonora is proud of its
title as the center of the world's mohair trade. The area around
Sonora where the mild, dry climate and hilly, brushy terrain is
particularly well suited for raising Angora goats due to their dry,
mountain origin. Angora goats are named for the area around Ankara
Turkey where they originated.

I am beginning to wonder about Texas "cowboys". We have seen few
cattle in the past two weeks. I would think that Texas "goatboy"
would be more appropriate. Goatboy, sounds like a geek in the 3rd
grade so I suppose they will continue to call goat ranchers cowboys.
Anyway, goats are endemic around here. They are going to have to
import cows for the rodeo this weekend unless they are going to rope
goats.

If you are into wool or textiles the historic Eldorado woolen mill
established in 1939 is still working and offering tours. Eldorado is
a few miles north of Sonora. You can observe how wool is processed
from the raw fiber start to finish. The mill still creates those
beautiful long lasting blankets of the past.

In the park there are hundreds and hundreds of black chinned humming
birds. Most of the campers have multiple humming bird feeders and all
are filled. They all say they are putting out a quart of sugar water
in each feeder each day. Folks it takes a lot of humming birds to
drink a quart of sugar water each day. Some of these folks have five
feeders. We are enjoying strolling around the park watching the
humming birds, deer, turkeys, jackrabbits and cottontails. We hear
some bob white quail but have not seen them yet. I am not sure that
we will ever adjust to hearing turkeys gobble instead of roosters crow
in the morning. It is really weird to hear them gobbling out your
window at sunrise.

Thursday, May 10, 2001
South Llano River State Park Junction, TX 1-915-446-3994

What a beautiful day, the sun is shining, the turkeys are gobbling and
the bobwhites are bob whiting. How can there be so many bob white's
yet you never see one? There was an unbelievable cacophony of
birdcalls this morning with bobwhites, turkeys and several
unidentifieds competing for airtime.

We set out today to explore Junction, Texas. Junction is located at
the confluence of the North and South Llano Rivers, thus the name
Junction. We toured a local historical museum that had a good
collection of frontier day's memorabilia. Junction appears to be the
last of the real water for a while. Other towns to the west of us
depend on wells I think. Sonora 60 miles west of Junction only has
well water. In fact the town sprang up around a well. Water is
precious in this area.

For RV'ers passing through the area, Junction is located about a half
mile south of I-10 and has a variety of good eating establishments.
The main street is very large (mostly 4 lane) and an easy drive for
RV's. There is a city park on the east end of town at the foot of the
big bridge. The city advertises that they have free overnight parking
in the park. We investigated the park and found that they indeed do
have plenty of space for RV's to park for the night right along the
river. There is enough room on the pavement for 30 or 40 rigs to
spend the night right on the river. We did not see any water or
electricity although I am sure there was water available somewhere in
the park. RV'ers looking for the park should stay on Main Street
(both exits off I-10 take you down main street). The park is located
on the northwest corner of the bridge so turn north at the bridge and
work your way to the river. There are a number of ways to end up in
the parking area and each is RV-friendly. Let me know if you stay
there.

We visited a bird and game viewing station this afternoon. This is
the first time we have done this so it was interesting. We were the
only ones in this little house with a big picture window looking out
over a constructed waterfall in an opening near several large oak
trees. In addition to the oak trees there was heavy cover all around
us. We were not there long before a group of six turkeys came walking
down the trail and fed right in front of the viewing window. In
addition to the turkeys there were a large variety of birds and a fox
squirrel that entertained us for an hour or so.

Friday, May 11, 2001
South Llano River State Park Junction, TX 1-915-446-3994

There is a certain serendipity to the way today worked out. We were
just relaxing at the park office watching multiple families of barn
swallows swoop in and out feeding their young in nest under the porch
roof. In addition the porch has several humming bird feeders with
swarms of black chinned humming birds stopping to feed. The action is
nonstop. The next thing we know a young lady drives up with
binoculars draped around her neck and wants to know where to view
birds. We offer to show her the bird blind we were in yesterday.
Shortly after we arrived in the viewing station another lady arrived.
The two ladies were expert birders and were able to identify bird
after bird that stopped by to give us a view. Amazingly Joyce and I
can now identify eight to ten birds that were unfamiliar to us a day
or so ago.

One of the birders was so excited about the bat-watching excursion she
had participated in a day earlier. She told us about Frio Cave
5-miles south of Concan, Texas. She said that the cave was on private
property and cost $10.00. To make arrangements for the adventure you
need to call Neal's Lodge. They meet you at the gate and take you to
the cave where 17-million bats emerge at dark. She described how the
seats were as close as you dared get to the mouth of the cave. She
said they flew out within a foot or so of your face if you wanted to
get that close. She watched them fly out from 8:30 until 9:30 and
said that they were still pouring out when she left. We will try to
work this in on our way back home in the Fall.

We went to the annual PCRA (Professional Cowboys Rodeo Association)
Rodeo in Junction last night. It was a hoot. Back in Pensacola when
we go to a rodeo all the city slickers are there in their "cowboy"
outfits. Here they have real cowboys since that is all there is
around here. Everyone is dressed in "blue" jeans (not any of the
colored ones). Everyone had a long sleeve shirt on, except a handful
of other tourist including us. Of course they also sport their cowboy
hats and boots. Most men have a 2" diameter circle in their left rear
jeans pocket where the ubiquitous can goes.

The clown had a mannequin with a Bill Clinton head that he propped up
with a broomstick. The bulls would attack it and he would whoop and
holler with some good jokes. When he first brought the Bill Clinton
prop out he told the audience that he had a special guest with him
tonight and that men probably better keep an eye on their daughters
and wives and possibly their sheep and goats. The audience really
responded when he uncovered the Bill Clinton head on the mannequin.
The other good joke the clown came out with had to do with someone
stealing all of the toilets from the local police station. The
official report said that the "police have nothing to go on".

It is always interesting to pay attention to local radio announcers
since they will give you a flavor of the areas mindset. Although this
is a Republican stronghold the local radio shows have had fun poking
fun at some Florida Republicans. Last Tuesday, while we were in
Kerrville they had a local election. The voter turnout was light and
the radio station was running a contest to see how they could increase
the turnout. The winner was a caller who suggested that they invite
Kathleen Harris "the Florida election lady" to give a makeup seminar
at the voting hall. Then yesterday the radio was announcing that
Florida Governor Jeb Bush had signed a law banning the voting machines
that caused all of the problems in the Presidential election. Part of
the new law also put a limit of 6 pounds of makeup on Kathleen Harris.

The town of Junction has about four of those old "mom & pop" motels
that used to be along highways before interstates. One of them has a
big sign out front with a really big sign that says "AMERICAN OWNED".
This same motel also advertises heavily on the local radio station
with the same "American Owned" message. The name on the motel is an
obvious "European" sir name. Does this imply that the people of India
or is it Pakistani decent, that seem to own and operate many of these
"mom & pop" motels are not "Americans"? Anyone care to comment or
clarify?

After the rodeo we went to a dance the pavilion next door. We had a
good time but were told that the "big" dance was Saturday night and we
should not miss it. We noticed a couple about our age and when we
approached them learned that they are from Houston and building a
ranch home in Junction. They were enjoying the dance as much as we
were.

Saturday, May 12, 2001
South Llano River State Park Junction, TX 1-915-446-3994

What a great day to be alive! Amen!

After a big night last night at the rodeo and dance we slept late this
morning. Turkeys woke us this morning gobbling outside our window.
Once the kids camping in the park over the weekend woke up and started
running up and down the streets we were able to get back to sleep.
The turkeys moved for cover when the kids started moving. We had
saved today for Irma's. Irma's is a restaurant in Junction that all
the locals rave about. It is a bakery and lunch place. They make a
hamburger on a fresh baked specialty bun that is hard for two adults
to eat. The hamburger is what we had been told to order and split
between us. It was good advice. A group of young cowboys in town for
the rodeo was sitting at the table next to us. They each took half of
their hamburger out in a bag laughing that they were just not man
enough to eat the whole thing. The cowboys were also raving about
some of the pastries. We thought it odd that cowboys were raving
about pastries so Joyce purchased some to see if their taste were as
epicure as Mrs. cognoscente. If in Junction Irma's (1907 & ½ Main
Street) is highly recommended. One of the boys T-shirt had the
following message: "If winning ain't everything hold my BUCKLE while I
kiss your girlfriend". Texans are proud of their belt buckles and
rodeo buckles obviously have special respect.

After eating we stopped by Jeff's Taxidermy & Guide Service to view
his show room at 1501 Main Street. Jeff is a very personable young
man and an excellent taxidermist. His show room is filled with
exotics hunted in the area. After spending time with Jeff we can now
identify the Axis deer, Aoudad, Blackbuck Antelope, Fallow deer, Sika
deer, Red Stag, Catalina Goat, Ibex Goat (hybrid), Mouflon sheep,
Corsican sheep, Black Hawaiian, 4-horn sheep, Wart Hog, wild boar,
Buffalo, Eland, Wahatusi Bull, Scimitar Horned Oryx, Red sheep and
Texas Whitetail Dall. Of course Jeff had plenty of plain old turkey
and Texas Whitetail deer. Jeff explained to us that Texas actually had
more of these exotics than the countries they originated in. One of
them has actually been imported back into its native country from
Texas in a restocking program. Several are actually endangered in
their original homeland but are thriving on the game ranches of Texas.
Although this is not an advertised tourist shop it should be. What a
showroom Jeff has. If you are looking for a guide service for any of
the exotics listed above Jeff is the man to put you in contact with
the guide and or ranch specializing in one of the above plus others
that may not have been on display. You can reach Jeff at 915-446-4252
or mailto:jeffstax@swtexas.net or www.huntinfo.com/diamondback.

Sunday, May 13, 2001
Monahans Sandhills State Park Monahans, TX 915-934-2092

After a big time at the rodeo and dance afterwards we slept late this
morning to recuperate. Since our time in South Llano State Park was
up we pushed west on I-10 all the way to Fort Stockton before turning
north on Texas 18 to Monahans, Texas and Monahans Sandhills State
Park. We have read much about this park and what it has to offer.

Our trip consisted of 205 miles on I-10 with only three towns of any
size Sonora, Ozona and Fort Stockton. These towns have populations of
around 3,000 each so the 205 miles along this strip of I-10 is
sparsely populated. Ozona, with a population of 3,460 sitting at an
altitude of 2,348 feet has the distinction of being the only town in
the entire county. The county is one of the nation's top wool
producers with more than 2,000,000 pounds marketed annually. Ranching
and oil is their livelihood. Once in Fort Stockton we turned north on
Texas 18 for another 56 miles to get to Monahans Sandhills State Park.

We could have just driven down I-10 oblivious to what we were passing
but we wanted to make this trip a learning experience. Several
friends of our suggested that we purchase
"Roadside Geology of Texas" a book that describes different Geology
you view driving Texas roads. It is an excellent book to give
regular people with just a passing interest in geology just enough
information to make it interesting. When reading the section of
Roadside Geology that takes us on I-10 from Junction to Fort Stockton
there were a number of terms that we needed to learn they are as
follows:

Mesa:/Butte: A hill that rises abruptly from the surrounding area and
has sloping sides and flat top. Buttes never have had trees on them,
while mesas have had or still have trees on them.

Draw: Another word for arroyo: A dry gully or a rivlet: stream

Arroyo: A dry gully.

With that out of the way I can began to describe topography along the
stretch of I-10 we were traveling. I-10 follows the Old Spanish Trail
that started in San Antonio then through Bandera and Sonora as it made
its way to San Diego. Remember that the Old Spanish Trail was used in
the 1500's and 1600's by Spanish explorers and Native Americans before
the Anglos started settling the area in the mid 1800's. This area we
passed through today is real west Texas desert country where they only
get about 14" of rain each year compared to 30" in the San Antonio
area. According to Roadside Geology of Texas the limestone rocks that
form the Hill Country and this area are the same. The Hill Country
has rounded mountains where as this area has sharp edge mesas and
buttes. The difference is the amount of rainfall. Rain creates the
only erosion thus this area has not received nearly the erosion that
the Hill Country has experienced. Since we had read the Roadside
Geology book we knew what to expect and look for as we traveled west.
How exciting to watch for the different things and actually have a
basic understanding of what we are seeing. Today's topography changed
from the western edge of Texas Hill country where there were permanent
rivers to west Texas desert. Shrubs north of Fort Stockton are only
waist high. The rounded hills have given way to mesas and buttes.
When we exited I-10 at Fort Stockton and headed north on Texas 18 we
lost the hills and mesas. The land was flat and the vegetation was
mostly only knee high. We were transversing the Pecos River Valley.
While on Texas 18 we did cross over the Pecos River. Back east the
Pecos River would hardly classify as a creek. The part we crossed
over could almost be jumped across without getting your feet wet.

We spent the night in Monahans Sandhills State Park. The park
consists of 3,840 acres of sand dunes up to 70 feet high and is part
of a dune field that extends about 200 miles south of Monahans and
north into New Mexico. Some of the dunes are stabilized by
vegetation, grow and change shape with prevailing winds. Walking the
roads through the park and viewing the dunes from the roads made us
think of sand dunes along coastal beaches. Much of the vegetation
looks similar. However, when we climbed to the top of the dunes that
did not have any vegetation the view looked like those desert movies
of the Sahara Desert. The dunes are so different from the flat scrub
desert area of the Pecos River Valley we transversed to get here. In
just a few short hours at Monahans we had experienced as much of Sand
dunes as we wanted to.

Monday, May 14, 2001
Balmorhea State Park Balmorhea, TX 915-375-2370

We traveled about 90 miles to the southwest today. First we traveled
42 miles to the southwest on I-20 reaching the town of Pecos where we
intended to spend time in their Museum. When we arrived the museum
was closed in spite of advertising that said they were open on
Mondays. Oh well, we could tell it was a good museum but we will miss
it this trip. Around the corner from the museum was a tamale shop
that another RV'er had said was so good that people drove from near by
towns to get the tamales. We had planned to order one tamale each.
Tamales in his place were not sold individually so our choice was
between a dozen and a half dozen. We chose the half dozen. They were
good and we recommend them. Real Mexican Tamales, what an experience.

>From Pecos we headed south on Texas 17 through the Pecos River Valley.
It was as flat an area as we have ever seen. Pecos is known for oil,
gunfighters and cantaloupes. Pecos cantaloupes are grown in irrigated
fields and are the delight of gourmets throughout the United States.
Their exceptional taste derives from the combination of alkali soil,
desert sunlight and altitude. These cantaloupes enjoy comparable
status with Maine lobsters and Georgia peaches.

One of the famous gunfighters of Pecos was Clay Allison the "Gentlemen
Gunfighter". It was said he earned the title because he "never killed
a man who didn't need killing." Clay was a Confederate spy that got
captured but he escaped by slipping his unusually small hands through
the manacles. Small or not, Clay Allison's hands were adept enough
with a six-shooter to outdraw and kill 20 men. He died when he was
pitched off his wagon and crushed under the wheels. They disagree
whether or not he was sober. His grave is in the park area downtown.

Texas 17 south of Pecos traverses flat sand and gravel deposits laid
down during the Ice Ages by streams flowing out of New Mexico
highlands to the north. Talk about flat land this is it. All along
the road are the fields where they grow the cantaloupe. Our
destination is Balmorhea State Park a few miles south of I-10.

Balmorhea State Park preserves a unique oasis in the desert. San
Solomon Springs has provided water for travelers for thousands of
years. Artifacts indicate Indians used the spring extensively before
white men came to the area. The park's main attraction is a large
(77,053 sq. ft.) artesian spring pool that is open daily and fed by
San Solomon Springs. The springs also fill a cienega (desert wetland)
and the canals of a refugium for a wide variety of endangered species.
The pool differs from most public pools in that it is 1 & _ acres in
size, 25' deep, has a constant temperature of 72 to 76 degrees, and no
chemicals are added. The 875 thousand gallons of water that flow into
the spring each hour completely change the water in the pool every 4
hours. Scuba divers as well as swimmers enjoy the 3 & ½
million-gallon pool.

This park, like most, Texas State Parks is full of wildlife. Shortly
after arriving a roadrunner came scampering down the road right in
front of our RV. Later we saw our first spotted ground squirrel. All
kinds of orioles and flycatchers inhabit the cottonwood trees around
the pool and cienega. We witnessed a spectacular sunset then watched
over 250 bats emerge from a picnic tables Spanish terracotta roof. We
missed the javelinas that come to a certain part of the park to feed
every night at dusk. Oh well we can not fit everything in. Ain't
life tough?

Tuesday, May 15, 2001
Davis Mountain State Park Davis Mountain, TX

We are still in flat land with mountains just a few miles to the south
and west of us. While we are at an altitude of 3,320 feet Balmorhea
State Park is located at the base of these sizable mountains. Today
we are heading to Fort Davis to stay at Fort Davis State Park. From
there we plan to do day trips to Marfa, Alpine, Fort Davis and
Marathon. All are located within 40 miles. We are traveling south on
Texas 17 as it follows the old overland trail or Old Spanish Trail.
This part of the trail was established in the late 1840's. When
Anglos were looking for a route to California they followed the Old
Spanish Trail. Once at the Pecos River a decision had to be made on
how to get past the Davis Mountains. There was a northern route and a
southern route. These parted around the Pecos River and joined again
near El Paso. I-10 more or less follows the northern route. We were
following the southern route to Fort Davis. From Fort Davis the
southern overland route turns west as it passes the southern end of
the Davis Mountains.

In Fort Davis we toured the "Overland Trail" museum. The museum
itself was good but the man operating it was great. He explained to
us that the overland trail mail system utilized mules instead of
horses because of their stamina. Mules could go 10 miles between
water stops. Horses could barely make 8 miles. Mules were changed
every 50 miles. Buckboard wagons traversed the road instead of the
larger 2,000-pound wagons. Buckboards were all animal power could
manage. The city of Fort Davis has the longest unpaved stretch
(1.7miles) of the Overland Road still in use. This unpaved section of
the Overland Road is lined with many original adobe structures dating
to the 1870's, most of which are still in use. The city of Fort Davis
sits at an altitude of 5,000 feet and is the highest town in Texas.
Highway 118 heading west out of Fort Davis is the highest paved road
east of the Rocky Mountains. The town of Fort Davis sprang up to
support the Army Fort that was established to protect California gold
seekers and migrating settlers traveling the road from bandit attacks
and Indian raids. Fort Davis was an important outpost until railroads
replaced stagecoaches and the military mission ceased to exist. Fort
Davis was closed in 1891.

In Fort Davis State Park we took skyline drive up to the scenic
overlook above the RV-Park. From the vantage point at the scenic
overlook it appears you can see forever, especially across the flat
plain that stretches to the south. We could see an enormous building
in the distance. We asked the man in the Overland Trail Museum what
it was and he explained that it was a 40-acre indoor, hydra phonic
tomato farm with a tempered glass roof. He said that there was an
almost identical building that grew flowers of some kind out to the
southeast.

Mike & Joyce Hendrix