Places visited:
Mississippi: Pass Christian
Louisiana: Covington,
Ponchatula, Crowley, Jennings, Gueydan, Lake Arthur, Lake
Charles Holly Beach
& Grand Chenier
Friday, March 30, 2001:
TREK mileage 24,858
We
got away from Pensacola around 10:00am and headed west on I-10.
Roger Rockwell
a friend of ours from Pensacola has often bragged about
the Harbor View Café
in Pass Christian, Mississippi. On Roger's
recommendation we detoured south
to hwy-90 and started looking for the
Harbor View Café. There it was
on the corner next to the Domino's
Pizza across the street from the harbor.
Unbelievable food and CHEAP!
I had the shrimp Po-Boy, like Roger had suggested.
It had more than
30 shrimp on it. Very good!!!
After lunch we headed
west on US-90 until we could jump up to I-10 and
I-12. A few hours later we
stopped for the night at the Wal-Mart
super center in Covington, La.
Saturday,
March 31, 2001:
TREK mileage 25,044
We started the day in Covington,
La. then drove west on La. 22 to
Kliebert's turtle & Alligator farm located
about 2 miles West of
Ponchatoula, La. An hour or so of our morning was spent
looking in
the antique shops in Ponchatoula. Ponchatoula is the strawberry
capitol
of the world. Every town in Southern Louisiana is the capitol
of something.
They do grow a lot of strawberries around here. There
is a strawberry festival
in Ponchatoula next weekend. Vendors are
selling fresh strawberries out of
their pick-up trucks on nearly every
corner. Joyce and I polished off a pint
without looking up. After
touring Kliebert's turtle & alligator farm we
purchased another pint
to eat with ice cream later.
Got diesel fuel
in Ponchatoula. 41.73 gal. Mileage 25,074
The turtle farm was really something.
Just one of the ponds had 25,
000 turtles in it. They sell baby turtles for
the pet shop trade.
Most of their baby turtles are shipped overseas. If you
have ever
seen the little yellow and green turtles that are sold as pets, well,
they
came from Kliebert's. The turtles lay their eggs in the soft
earth around the
pond. Workers dig up the freshly laid eggs and put
them in an incubator where
they have a 95% hatch rate. Handling of
the eggs is very similar to the chicken
industry. The eggs are
cleaned and sprayed for samanela (sp) just like chicken
eggs. Shortly
after hatching the baby turtles are shipped overseas.
The
alligator farm was just as interesting. They have a pond with
over 250 "breeder
alligators". All of the alligators in this pond are
48 years old. There
are about 50 males leaving around 200 females.
The males are large with the
females much smaller. Females start
breeding around 6 years old.
Just
like the turtles, as soon as the alligators lay their eggs around
the pond
workers steal them and take them to the incubator. Mothers
fiercely defend
their nest. They do not let the tourist see this
action. To say the least it
is dicey and the workers have to use big
long sticks to beat the mother alligators
off. In the video we saw of
this action two to three men with sticks kept the
mother alligator at
bay while another worker stole the eggs. This part of the
operation
is definitely an adrenalin rush.
When the baby alligators
hatch they are put into a wire mesh covered
pond. That is to protect them from
raccoons, blue herons, vultures
and other predators. Once these alligators
have reached 18" to 2' in
length they are relocated to an uncovered outdoor
pond.
The alligator pond is like a large donut with an island in the
center.
Many wading birds use the island as a rookery. Like the rookery at
Avery
Island, Louisiana the birds have a symbiotic relationship with
the alligators.
If a chick falls out of the nest it becomes alligator
chow. However, as long
as the alligators are present there will not
be any raccoons raiding the nests.
It seems that herons and other
wading birds choose to have their rookeries
protected by the
alligators.
One of the interesting side exhibits was
a huge snapping turtle they
said was 140 years old. It was big. The tour guide
said that they
rented this big snapping turtle to Jeff Corwin. He is the other
guy
that does the nature shows like the crocodile hunter. They rented the
snapping
turtle to the film crew which took it up the road to a little
swamp where they
placed it for filming. I saw the show where Jeff
walks around in the swamp
looking for a big snapping turtle then bingo
he reaches down and pulls this
big boy out. Keilbert's had them
furnish an insurance policy for $10,000 in
case the snapping turtle
escaped.
Upon leaving Keilbert's we headed west
on La. 22 then in Springfield
we turned North to US 190 West to Denham Springs,
La where we jumped
down to I-12 which shortly turns into I-10 west through
Baton Rouge
then over the Atchafalaya basin/swamp. The 18-mile bridge over
the
Atchafalaya basin is purported to be the most expensive stretch of
interstate
highway in the United States. I can believe it. The
Atchafalaya Basin, is America's
largest river swamp and is one of the
last of its kind. The Atchafalaya Basin
is part of a complex flood
control system that helps to drain two thirds of
the contiguous United
States. It is made up of over 1,000,000 acres, and is
America's
largest forested wetland complex. The difference between a marsh
and a
swamp is a marsh is grassed and a swamp is wooded. The Atchafalaya
Basin
is 31/2 times more productive in fish and wildlife resources
than the Everglades.
Upon reaching the western side of the Atchafalaya we exited I-10 at
Henderson,
La and headed north on La. 686 to Opelousas, La. then west
on US-190. We were
looking for the Cajun Campground in Eunice, La.
A number of friends had recommended
this campground. However, we did
not find it. Several individuals later told
us it was closed. When
we did not find the Cajun Campground it was time to
make other plans.
Joyce located a Wal-Mart super center in Crowley about 15
miles south
of Eunice so we headed there for the night where we shared the
Wal-Mart
campground with about 5 other rigs.
The Wal-Mart Super center in Crowley,
La is located at Lat: 30° 13.90'
Lon: 92° 21.93'. Wal-Mart management
arranged for me to use the
phone-line in lay-away to download my e-mail.
Crowley,
La. is the rice capital of the US. Their neighbor community
to the east is
Rayne, the "frog" capital of the world. Like I said
earlier every
community down here is the capitol of something.
Crowley is crowded with rice
processing facilities. Large silos on
the edge of town are festooned with advertisements
for Mahatma and
Minute Maid brands.
Sunday, April 01, 2001:
Trek
mileage 25,232
We had intended to attend church this morning. Absolutely nothing
worked
right. We did not even get out of the Wal-Mart parking lot
until after 10:00
am. You would think that we would be able to do
better than that. Oh, well!
We will do better next week.
Joyce located a mom and pop campground about
20 miles to the southwest
in Lake Arthur, La. on the north shore of Lake Arthur.
Shady Shores
campground is located at the end of Bonnie Rd. off La. 14 about
2
miles west of Lake Arthur (Lat: 30° 04.04' Lon: 92° 41.95').
We
spent Sunday afternoon touring the Lake Arthur area in our Saturn.
The area
consists of miles and miles of rice fields in various stages
of being flooded.
Many wading birds can be viewed in the flooded rice
fields. I suspect they
are after crawfish since most birds are in the
fields with the crawfish traps.
Joyce and I saw many little blue
herons and glossy ibis. These are "new"
birds for us. A wood duck
roost is here on the RV park property. At dusk the
wood ducks start
flying in to the roost. We are seeing a lot of geese flying
overhead
in the fading light at dusk heading for the city park 2 miles away
where
they spend the night.
Monday, April 2, 2001:
TREK mileage 25,265
We
toured the town of Jennings, La. today. Jennings bills itself as
the "Boudin
capital of the Universe". There is a very good General
Merchandise Museum
and Telephone Museum in downtown Jennings. Every
local told us to try Don "E's"
restaurant for lunch. It is located ¼
m. north of I-10 @ exit 64 LA-26.
Do not expect to see a sign
advertising Don "E's" it is the place
with all of the cars beside the
Budget motel. A buffet is served from 11:00
to 2:00 daily. The
buffet is what everyone bragged about. Another restaurant
in town the
"Boudin King" is heavily advertised but the locals say
it is for the
tourist. A real nice man running an antique mall told us that
the
BEST place to get boudin was a small store _ mile north of Scott, La.
Look
for a small store with several gas pumps they have the best
meats. They sell
ready to eat or frozen_.. no facilities to eat on
the premises. We will save
this information for our return trip since
we have already passed Scott on
our journey west.
In addition to touring Jennings we drove back to Lake
Arthur and
headed east on La. 14 to Gueydan, the "duck" capital of
America.
During the winter Gueydan, hosts a tremendous number of ducks and
geese
that forage in the rice fields and winter over in the marsh that
stretches
30 miles south to the Gulf of Mexico. The best reason for a
cursory traveler
to stop in Gueydan is to pick up a stock of locally
grown Ellis Stansel's "popcorn
rice" at the G&H seed company. Joyce
and I purchased a 2# bag of this
popcorn rice to add to our stock of
eats. If it is anything special we will
let you know.
On several of our drives along La-14 around Lake Arthur we
spot "craw
fishermen" tending their crawfish traps in the flooded
rice fields.
These wire traps about the size of a beach ball obviously have
a flat
bottom with a hole in the top that always is above the waterline. The
water
appears to be 3" to 6" deep in the fields. The crawfish pots
sit
in rows about 50' apart. The men tending these crawfish traps do
so in aluminum
boats with a fairly large wheel mounted about 4' in
front of the boat. The
wheel pulls the lightweight boat through the
rice field. The man sits on the
right hand side where he can scoop
bait into the trap while maintaining a speed
of about 6 mph. When
baiting the traps the man uses a scoop to get the bait
out of a
6-gallon plastic container then as he passes by a pot he just dumps
the
bait in without even slowing down, it is a motion that the
fisherman has down
to a science. When emptying the traps he does not
slow down either. As he passes
by a trap again at about 6 mph he
picks it out of the water turns it upside
down where the crawfish fall
out then with a deft motion he returns it to the
flooded field just in
time to grab the next pot and repeats the process. This
is a truly
unbelievable sight, especially the large wheel in front of the boat
pulling
it along.
Nott's corner restaurant, on La-14 in Lake Arthur, is a favorite
with
locals. One of the locals said his favorite is the crawfish platter.
It
is closed on Monday (today) so we will have to try it on our next
visit.
Lake
Arthur's main street dead-ends in a cul-de-sac at the lake with a
very nice
dock extending into the lake and a nice city park. On the
eastern side of the
cul-de-sac is a heritage live oak tree. This oak
is not advertised a being
a heritage oak but from the looks of other
heritage oaks we have seen it has
to be between 200 to 300 years old.
The trunk appears to be about 18' in circumference
about 4' above the
ground. A flock of Canada Geese roost in the park at night.
All day and all night we hear what appears to be gun shots (cannons)
at
random intervals. Actually, it sounds like a small war. Upon
questioning the
locals we find that these are propane cannons placed
in the rice fields to
scare away the ducks, geese, blackbirds and
other birds that descend on the
newly planted rice fields and devour
the seed rice. From all of the birds that
we see these noisemakers
are essential. Earlier in the day we watched as an
airplane made low
level passes over several freshly flooded fields sowing rice
seed.
Tuesday, April 03, 2001
TREK mileage 25,314
Lat: 30° 17.736'
Lon: 93° 15.853'
We hitched up the Saturn and moved to Sam Houston Jones
State Park
(337-855-2665) just north of Lake Charles, La. Sam Houston Jones
is a
nice State Park with 85 spots for RV's. There is a river, several
lakes
and many opportunities to view wildlife and walk on trails.
At Shady Shores
RV Park in Lake Allen this morning we got to view a
barn owl and a pileated
woodpecker. Once we got to Sam Houston Jones
SP the first bird we saw was another
pileated woodpecker. All along
the road we were seeing shrikes and little blue
herons in large
flocks.
We have been in Louisiana for 4 days and have
not eaten any boudin.
Enough is enough. Today we stop by a place and get some
hot boudin
balls and ate them driving down the road. Life does not get any
better
than this.
As the sun started to set deer came out of the woods at Sam Houston
Jones
State Park. On a short walk around the campground we could see
as many as 20
deer at one time, while groups of 3 to 6 were common.
Even my deer hunting
buddy, Galon Hall, could get one of these. VBG
(Very Big Grin), actually, I
do not hunt but Galon does, or says that
is what he does in his bubba truck.
Wednesday, April 4, 2001:
TREK mileage 25,314
We put 180 miles
on the Saturn today while circling Grand Lake on the
Creole Nature Trail. Grand
Lake is located south of Lake Charles.
From Sulphur we took La. 22 south through
Hackberry, the "crab capital
of the south" to the Sabine National
Wildlife Refuge where we toured
their headquarters and visitors center. They
had a series of
wonderful dioramas that are an excellent presentation of the
entire
ecosystem. Four miles south of the visitors center Joyce and I
stopped
and took the Sabine NWR nature trail through the marsh refuge.
The raised walkway
offered some of the best wildlife viewing
imaginable including lots of alligators.
Numerous ducks and other
wading birds were readily identifiable. We drove through
miles and
miles of marsh. The marsh spread from horizon to horizon in all
directions
with virtually no trees. Leaving the nature trail we
continued south to Holly
Beach. Holly Beach is known to denizens of
South Louisiana as the "Redneck
Riviera". Do not expect to see a
condo there ain't one. The place is a
collection of the most
dilapidated fishing camp housing and 50-year-old campers
and house
trailers ever assembled in one place.
From Holly Beach we
drove west approximately 12 miles. This is
absolutely the most remarkable drive
we have ever experienced along a
beach. While standing in the middle of the
highway one can easily
throw a rock into the Gulf of Mexico then turn around
and throw
another rock across the barbed wire fence into the rangeland where
cattle
are grazing. As far as the eye can see to the north there is
nothing but grasslands
(no trees). There are no sand dunes the small
beach becomes the highway and
immediately north of the highway is the
rangeland. Literature of the area says
the average elevation of the
entire Parish (Louisiana County) is only 2' above
sea level. I can
believe it.
Upon returning to Holly Beach we continued
on the Creole Nature Trail
heading east to Cameron where we have to ride a
ferry across the ship
channel. Cameron is an impressive collection of crew
boats and other
industries that service the offshore oil and gas industry.
We
continued east on La. 27&82 to Creole then to Grand Chenier. Chenier
is
a French word for where oaks grow. Out in this area people live on
the cheniers
because they are the only places over 2 feet above sea
level. Even the cheniers
look to be only 10 to 15 feet above sea
level. Grand Chenier appeared, to me,
to be the dune line of the Gulf
of Mexico thousands of years ago.
From
Grand Chenier we backtracked to Creole, (another Chenier) where
we took La.
27 back to Lake Charles. The most notable sights heading
north on hwy 27 were
the wild iris growing in the ditches for miles
and miles. They were blooming
profusely and were simply beautiful.
What a sight, miles and miles of gorgeous
wild iris in full bloom here
in the middle of the marsh.
For future reference
we noted several RV parks along the way.
1. Holly Beach: Tides Inn RV Park,
hwy-82 Holly Beach, full hookup &
laundry right on the Gulf. Phone 337-569-2369
2. Grand Chenier: Twin
Oaks Park (RV) there were a number of mobile homes as
well as about 20
spaces for RV's. Nothing special but appeared to be full hook-up.
$8.00
phones 538-2682 - 538-2154, the area code is probably 337.
Thursday, April
5, 2001:
TREK mileage: 25,344
We used today to tour several places of
interest in Lake Charles. We
enjoyed a driving tour of historic old homes located
in a 6-block area
constructed between 1885 and 1920. A publication from the
visitor's
center gives a variety of interesting details on each of the historic
houses
and their original inhabitants. Next was the Imperial
Calcasieu Museum located
at 204 W. Sallier. It is a very nice museum
with a 300-year-old live oak tree
on the property. Then we located
the Cajun Café 1317 Broad Street for
lunch. This little place had
been recommended highly. We will add to the recommendation.
For any
of you RV'ers heading through the area Broad Street, where the Cajun
Café
is located, is also US hwy-90. It is located a mile or so south
of I-10 and
is on the eastern side of the historic district where we
toured the old homes.
It is a ramshackle blue building with a gravel
parking lot. No matter the condition
of the premises, the food is
great and the parking lot is full, $6.00 for lunch.
Finishing our time in beautiful Lake Charles we headed toward Texas.
On
hwy 90 while going through Venton, La we were looking for Charlie's
Cajun take
out that was located at the intersection of La. 108 and
US-90. They have been
reported to have the very best boudin in the
area. Our plan was to get some
to take into Texas with us. We found
the store but a sign on the window said
they had moved to 1905 West
Street next to the Burger King. Not to be out done
we plugged the
address into Street Atlas and found the address located several
miles
down the road and it was right on our way to I-10. When we got to
Burger
King and the address we could not see any building with
Charlie's Cajun take
out on it. Now the question is where is
Charlie's Cajun take out? Does any
one know?
Our next stop was the Texas visitor's center then on to Mobile
Manor
RV Park in Beaumont, TX. (409-842-1551) Lat: 30° 02.050' Lon: 94°
09.047'.
We chose this park because of the modem hookup in the
laundry room. It is a
nice enough place and the Manager, Abbie
Baradar, is wonderful people.
We
spent Thursday night downloading and reading e-mail and balancing
checkbooks.
Mike
& Joyce Hendrix