Places Visited:
Colorado: Craig, Steamboat Springs, Mayberry & Irish
Canyon, Colorado.
Wyoming: Rock Springs, Green River, Pinedale & Jackson
Hole, Wyoming.
Utah: Manila, Sheep Creek Geological Loop, Flaming Gorge
both the gorge plus the dam & spillway & Red Canyon Lodge, Utah.
Saturday,
July 21, 2001
KOA in Craig, Colorado. Elevation 6.300'
After the rodeo
and associated side shows last night I do not know how
we can top that much
fun and entertainment today. Thank goodness the
second night of the rodeo is
tonight. Usually I love to watch bull
riding, however, last night was a two-ring
circus, women wrestling
greased-pigs in one arena with men riding bulls in
the other. It was
extremely difficult to watch both. The rodeo does not start
until
7:00pm. Until then we decide to drive 42 miles east to Steamboat
Springs,
Colorado. Most people know Steamboat Springs as a winter ski
resort. It is
also a summer activity place. Mountain biking, hiking,
the ubiquitous shopping
areas, tubing, horseback riding and other
outdoor activities abound in the
area. While in Steamboat Springs we
had to experience the Continental Divide
located about 12-miles east
of town. It was a steady 7% grade from the outskirts
of town to the
summit of Rabbit Ears Pass. The views from the road are worth
the
ride up. We ate at Johnny B. Good's Diner in downtown Steamboat. It
was
great! Locals had recommended it and we agree.
Sunday, July 22, 2001
Wal-Mart,
Rock Springs, Wyoming. Elevation: 6,275'
Our drive to Rocksprings was through
desolate country. A sign outside
of Mayberry stated "no services next
50-miles". Mayberry, Colorado
had one service station and no traffic light.
However, Mayberry did
have a very nice city park set up for RV's. Craig had
one RV-Park. It
was a KOA at $33 per-night. If we are in the area again we
will stay
in the city park in Mayberry. We were traveling west on Colorado
318
then turned north on county road 10north to the Wyoming border where
it
connects with Wyoming 430. Twenty-two miles of this route was on a
graded dirt
road. The graded dirt road was just as good as Colorado
318. All of this was
through high desert BLM property. On County
Road 10north we went through Irish
Canyon, a very scenic canyon miles
and miles from civilization. There was a
nice BLM campground in Irish
Canyon with no facilities that we could see. Along
the way we were
able to see several bands of wild horses and a solitary antelope.
In
Rock Springs we stopped by their Super Wal-Mart to shop. Two other
motorhomes
from Florida were there and spending the night. We made
friends and decided
to stay the night with them and 10 to 12 other
RV'ers sharing the parking lot.
Out west Wal-Marts are few and far
between. What we take for granted back east
is a WELCOME sight when
we occasionally stumble on one out here. Our refrigerator
and freezer
took a shoehorn to load.
Monday, July 23, 2001
Tex's,
Green River, Wyoming. Elevation 6,100'
We moved the RV from the Wal-Mart
in Rock Springs to Tex's RV-Park in
Green River, Wyoming then took off on another
adventure. We have been
told that the drive along the western side of Flaming
Gorge is a "must
see" on our trip out west. Everyone that told us
this was CORRECT. We
are traveling Wyoming 530 south to Manila, then Utah 44
south then US
191 to the Flaming Gorge Dam/Spillway. The first 30 miles south
out
of Green River is typical high plains desert. In the middle of this
desert
we turn east on the road leading to Buckboard Marina that
provides excellent
facilities for boaters, fishermen and RV'ers. Full
hook-up RV spots are available
in the blazing sun for $22 per night
along with free boondocking sites. Several
groups of fishermen were
cleaning limits of fish. I was impressed. They had
coolers full of
good size fish.
Continuing south on Wyoming 530 another
20 miles we get to Lucerne
Valley Marina located on the Utah/Wyoming border.
What a wonderful
marina. The marina store had local mounts of trophy fish,
mostly
trout. Many of the mounts were in excess of 20 pounds with several in
the
50-pound range. Impressive! Again fishermen were cleaning limits
of good size
fish. Facilities for RV's were available but these did
not have hookups. Deer
and antelope were grazing along the river and
in the RV-Park. We turn off 530
on to Utah 44 in Manila. Less than a
block from THE stop sign in Manila we
see two deer grazing in a
pasture.
A few miles south of Manila we take
the 17-mile Sheep Creek Geological
Loop. Several friends have told us this
is a "must see". Now that we
have done it we both think this 17-mile
loop is as scenic as any we
have seen. According to information posted along
the way the area
contained in and around this loop has gone through some unique
geological
events. The first geologic event was the separating of
tectonic plates. When
the two plates separated it left a valley. Over
the next several hundred million
years the sea filled the valley and
layers of sediment filled the valley. Then
volcanic activity uplifted
the entire area before actually punching through
the sedimentary
layers. A tremendous variety of sedimentary rock is visible
on the
17-mile loop. Virtually all of the sedimentary layers are contorted,
broken,
and in unusual angles. It was not uncommon to see the
sedimentary rock as 60
to 80 degree angles then down the road seeing
it angled in the opposite direction.
Volcanic plugs were evident
throughout the area. The cliffs in the area were
supposed to contain
big horn sheep. We did not see any. The ride around the
17-mile loop
was taxing on our Saturn. I had to drop back into 2nd and turn
on the
heater to control heat. We climbed to over 9,000 feet.
Sheep Creek
Geological loop is a "MUST DO" for anyone in the general
area. We
just might come back and take the loop again except from the
opposite direction.
There is just so much to see along the 17-miles
that it is impossible to soak
it all in.
Our next stop is around Flaming Gorge Dam & Spillway. We
took the Dam
tour and watched several of their excellent videos on the Dam
and
Reservoir. Like all of the dams along the Green and Colorado Rivers
they
were constructed for water containment and flood control
purposes. Electric
generation was a by-product. The Dam has created
a world-class fishery. Below
the dam they have created a blue ribbon
trout fishery by maintaining the optimum
water temperature for trophy
trout. On the dam tour we went to the area where
water exits the
turbines and fed trophy trout. As individuals threw handfuls
of fish
food hundreds of 20 pound trout would boil the water. This dam tour
was
OK not great. We got very close to the generators but the
information was sparse.
Feeding fish seemed to be the major
attraction.
Below the dam is an area
where fishermen and rafters could launch to
float downstream.
On the
way back we stopped at the Red Canyon Lodge for dinner. We ate
outside with
a raucous group of hummingbirds. We were close to three
large feeders that
were being frequented by large numbers of humming
birds that were flying between
the feeders and two large evergreen
trees located nearby. These humming birds
obviously had nests in the
evergreens and were making constant trips to the
feeders. The ruby
throats were constantly fighting, while the others just went
about
their business. A small bunny rabbit was feeding about 5' away while
a
large variety of wild ducks and birds fed at one of the bird
feeders. Chipmunks
and other small chipmunk like mammals scampered
around providing entertainment.
After dining we stop by the Red Canyon Visitors center for our best
view
yet of the Flaming Gorge. From atop 2,000' cliffs we are able to
see why George
Wesley Powell on his historic trip down the Green and
Colorado Rivers named
this the Flaming Gorge. This is another "must
see" spot.
As
we continue our way back to Green River we are treated to
45-minutes of spectacular
sunset. It was after 10:00 before we got
home.
This was one of those
"Too-Much-Fun" days.
Tuesday, July 24, 2001
Tex's, Green River,
Wyoming. Elevation 6,100'
We spent the day recuperating from yesterday.
After sleeping late we
moseyed down to the local Museum. As usual this town
of 12,000 had a
super museum. This museum had several upscale dioramas that
rival
those sponsored by the Federal Government. They had a very good
sequence
that explained in detail the exodus of Mormons from the
northeast to Utah.
Even though Mormons are Christians they were not
enough like the other "Christians"
in the northeast and were literally
driven out of those communities. Once the
Mormons arrived in Utah
they were not moving again. Like the Jews in Israel
they fiercely
stood their ground, and even resorted to mass murder and church
sponsored
militia that wrecked havoc on non-Mormons attempting to
settle in the area.
A good friend of mine sent me the following this morning. I would say
it
is a joke but there is too much truth to it for it to be a joke.
There are
three religious truths:
1. Jews do not recognize Jesus as the Messiah.
2.
Protestants do not recognize the Pope as the leader of the
Christian faith.
3. Baptists do not recognize each other in the liquor store or at
Hooters.
It was just too good not to include in this travelogue since I had
just
read about the Mormons being driven out of the northeast because
of religious
differences.
In the museum we also learned about Trona. Stop laughing, what
do you
know about trona? Trona is a mineral that looks like quartz, however,
it
is something entirely different. Trona is refined into a white
powder called
soda ash. Soda ash is used to make glass, detergent,
paper, water softeners,
drugs, cleaning compounds, and baking soda.
The worlds largest deposit of trona,
over 100 billion tons, are
located just west of Green River, Wyoming where
we are staying. Over
90% of the soda ash produced in the United States and
about 25% of the
world's supply is mined in this area. Trona was discovered
here in
1938 during oil and gas explorations. Up until that time all soda ash
in
the United States was produced synthetically by combining ammonia,
limestone
and coal. I know each of you want to know where this trona
came from don't
you? Well, about fifty million years ago a basin
trapped all of the water from
surrounding areas. As the water
evaporated it left behind beds of trona. Layers
of shale and
limestone subsequently covered the trona. Today the trona is located
from
800 to 3500 feet below the surface in beds that are eight to ten
feet thick.
Someday, millions and millions of years from now a
similar seam of "salt"
will be mined from the Great Salt Lake near
Salt Lake City, Utah where that
basin is trapping a salt solution that
remains after the evaporation process.
The visitor's center in Green
River gives each visitor a small box of Arm &
Hammer baking soda in an
effort to make the connection between trona and baking
soda. Now you
know the "rest of the story" as Paul Harvey would say.
The
towns of Rock Springs and Green River were both pony Express and
stage stations.
When the Union Pacific Railroad came through in the
late 1860's they became
important towns and flourished. John Wesley
Powell and his party began their
historic exploration of the Green and
Colorado Rivers right here in Green River.
Quoting
Powell: "May 24, 1869-The good people of Green River City
turn out to
see us start. We raise our little flag; push the boat
from shore, and the swift
current carries us down. Our Boats are four
in number. Three are built of oak;
staunch and firm; double-ribbed,
with double stem and stern posts, and further
strengthened by
bulkheads, dividing each into three compartments_The fourth
boat is
made of pine, very light, but 16 feet in length_. We take with us
rations
deemed necessary to last ten months_For scientific work, we
have two sextants,
four chronometers, a number of barometers,
thermometers, compasses, and other
instruments."
For those of you that may have forgotten who John Wesley
Powell was I
will help you. Powell was one of several geologists who helped
to map
and open the west in the 1860s and 70s. Powell and other
geologist-explorers
named many of the mountains, rivers, canyons and
formations.
Wednesday,
July 25, 2001
Pinedale Campground. Pinedale, WY. Elevation: 7,200'
When
we downloaded e-mail this morning there was an emergency message
from my sister
saying that my Dad had fallen and broken his wrist in
three places. My sister
and her husband have been so good looking
after Mom and Dad while we are gone.
Actually, my parents live alone
and get along just fine. My sister and her
husband are just "THERE"
when things arise. We offer our heartfelt
thanks to them. Our cell
phone was in a dead zone but we were able to reach
Mom a few miles
down the road and found out that the hand had been set and
they were
moving on with life.
We are heading to Rock Springs, Wyoming
about 10-miles from where we
have been staying the past two days. We have a
few things to pick up
in the Super Wal-Mart and we want to leave the motorhome
there while
we drive to the local museum. Rock Springs was a "Company
Town".
Union Pacific was that company. Union Pacific mined coal in the
area.
Rock Springs prides itself in being home to 56 different
nationalities.
The mines needed manpower and Union Pacific was
interested in obtaining the
cheapest labor possible. Miners were
brought to the mines from all over Europe,
South America, Mexico,
China and Japan to name the major sources. Unlike most
communities
these nationalities took pride in their heritage and diversity.
The
community banded together to keep any group from being persecuted. One
particularly
poignant story told of three brothers from a Japanese
background that enlisted
and served in the army while their Cousin in
California was sent to a detention
camp. Each of the Japanese
families in town had to register with the local
Sheriff at the
breakout of the war but were not sent to detention camps.
After
several hours in their very good museum we headed north to
Pinedale, Wyoming.
The drive from Rock Springs to Pinedale is
"typically Wyoming" high
desert, surrounded by snowy mountain peaks.
The "high desert" we
were traversing on Wyoming 191 lies in a basin.
We climbed from 6,175' elevation
in Rock Springs to 7,200' elevation
in Pinedale. There is virtually no plant
life along the way other than
knee high sagebrush.
Pinedale is home to
the Mountain Man Museum. Until this Museum I had
no idea what a "Mountain
Man" was or what made him/them important
enough to have a museum in their
honor. Now we know. The Mountain
Men were the Beaver trappers of the early
1800's. They went into the
wilderness trapping beaver for the beaver hat craze
that was sweeping
Europe. The Mountain Men either lived by themselves or took
Indian
women as wives. Mountain Men were a special breed of individuals.
Trappers
had to adapt to the ways of the wilderness and develop a
complex set of skills
necessary for survival. Their mountain craft
was unsurpassed, even by their
Native American counterpart. His sense
of direction was uncanny, and his remarkable
endurance kept him going
through incredible ordeals. In the hey-day of the
Mountain Men
100,000 beaver were consumed in the production of hats. By 1840
the
beaver fur trade had collapsed. The streams had been hunted to
exhaustion
and the South American Nutria pelt had replaced the beaver
as a cheaper source
of quality fur. Silk hats also became the rage
about this time.
The Mountain
Man has long symbolized the true American frontier hero.
They became an emblem
for what was considered to be the ultimate
western experience. Adventurous,
hardy and self-reliant, they were
agents of expansionism. Most of them wore
buckskin clothes acquired
by trading with Indian women.
The fur trade
was at the cutting edge of the frontier process. It
opened to the world knowledge
of the geography of the area, which in
turn led to the agricultural settlement
of the Far West by Americans.
One exhibit in the museum had to do with
the early industry of logging
the surrounding forest for railroad ties. They
must have done a good
job since there are few if any pines left. Our RV-Park
does not have
any trees much less pine trees. They advertise the park as surrounded
by
snow-capped mountains. Technically they are correct. When
standing outside
you can see snow-capped mountains but in reality we
are next to a power company's
storage yard. We are laughing about the
difference between advertising hype
and reality. The other reality is
that the park is full and they are the only
park in town.
The Mountain Man museum in Pinedale, Wyoming had put together
a "world
class" museum and is well worth a visit when in the area.
Thursday,
July 26, 2001
Virginian RV Resort and Motel downtown Jackson, WY. Elevation:
6,200'
We moved 100 miles north to Jackson, Wyoming. We have always heard
of
Jackson Hole. Now that we are here it is just Jackson. It seems that
the
broad valley is called Jackson Hole. Fur trappers who frequented
the area in
the early 1800s used the word "hole" to describe a valley
surrounded
by mountains. One of the early "mountain men" William
Sublette is
thought to have named this valley after his partner, David
Jackson, around
1829.
We were having trouble finding an RV-Park near Jackson. Twelve miles
south
of Jackson we passed one at $22 per-night, but decided that it
was not close
enough to the action in Jackson. In Jackson we found
the Virginian RV Resort.
We are staying here for three nights. We
are sharing the park with a group
of 27 Prevost. I am glad they let
us stay here. This "RV Resort"
has displaced the KOA in Craig,
Colorado as the most expensive park we have
stayed in. The Virginian
RV Resort is $42 per-night. We will party while we
are here but will
continue the party back at the $22 per-night park and drive
the 12
miles back to Jackson.
Jackson has a multi-agency visitors center
that is a "must see" for
all visitors. They display a multitude of
world-class animal mounts,
in addition to a full-length movie on the area.
Outside is a walkway
into a marsh area set aside as a waterfowl nesting area.
Many individuals, locals as well as internet friends have recommended
that
we dine at Bubba's Bar-B-Que. They were correct. The price is
right and the
food is great. If you are looking for a good salad bar
they feature one of
the better ones you will find. There is NO WAY
you can leave hungry.
As
we got within several miles of Jackson this morning we could see
the forest
fire that is receiving national attention. It is very
close to Jackson. As
night approached we took a drive out highway 22
located on the south end of
town. The road is lined for miles with
cars watching the fire on the side of
a mountain directly to the south
of us. Today the fire was upgraded to the
number one priority
wildfire in the country. An additional 450 fire fighters
were added
today with more on the way. As we watch, a steady succession of
helicopters
are dropping water on the fire. The helicopters are in
formation like 18-wheelers
on the interstate. It is difficult to tell
how many helicopters are in the
formation but 20 may be a good guess.
It is easy to see upwards of 10 in line
to drop water at any one time.
The others have to fly out of sight to get another
supply of water.
This is an all out effort, on the Federal Governments part,
to save
the houses that are being threatened. Nine large air tanker
airplanes,
which dump fire retardant, are in a constant pattern on the
leading edge of
the fire. The nine air tankers represent 25% of the
nations inventory of these
tankers. We are able to see multi-million
dollar homes in harms way. Helicopters
are dropping water on and
around them. Locals are saying that Dick Cheney has
a palatial estate
on the mountain that is burning. They all say that is why
the Federal
Government has poured the resources into this effort. A fleet of
tanker
trucks are refilling tanks at the highway 22 Snake River
Bridge. Not far away
a pasture on highway 22, no more than 3 miles
out of Jackson, has been converted
into headquarters for the
firefighters. The pasture is covered with tents,
cooking facilities,
old school busses, tanker trucks, fire trucks and a host
of other fire
fighting paraphernalia. After watching the intense action for
about
45 minutes we head back into Jackson where Joyce has plans for us to
go
dancing.
The rustic yet classy Million Dollar Cowboy Bar, located across
from
the Jackson Town Square was our destination. The bar features saddle
barstools
at the bar. No Joyce did not belly up to the bar here
either. Animal mounts;
western antiques and knobbed pine architecture
festoon the interior. Country
western dance bands play six nights a
week to a packed dance floor. We danced
until the "midnight hour"
before retiring. Joyce is becoming a party
animal.
Needless to say we are sleeping in tomorrow.
Friday, July
27, 2001
Virginian RV Resort and Motel downtown Jackson, WY. Elevation: 6,200'
As
promised we sleep late then I took Joyce to Jackson Square for a
day of shopping.
Around 4:30 she was shopped out. From there we
headed out to get a close up
view of the fire that is the talk of the
town and continues to make national
news. The firefighters do not
have this thing under control. Tremendous resources
are being used to
slow it down. We are totally amazed at the aircraft and helicopters
hammering
the edges of this fire. Over a thousand firefighters are on
the ground and
still the fire marches on.
Tonight was another night of dancing at the Million
Dollar Cowboy Bar.
We will be sleeping late again tomorrow.
Mike &
Joyce Hendrix