Places visited:

Arizona: Flagstaff, Sedona, Oak Creek Canyon, Jerome, Clarkdale, Meteor
Crater, Winslow & Petrified Forrest
Nevada: Las Vegas

Saturday, June 2, 2001
Woody Mountain Campground, Flagstaff, AZ (7,300')

Jeff and Kathryn drove us through beautiful Oak Creek Canyon on the
way to Sedona. Oak Creek Canyon is 12-miles of winding road following
none other than sparkling Oak Creek. This drive took us through one
of the richest riparian areas in the country. Every turn, every peak
we get of the canyon walls, every tree formed tunnel, every rock
walled curve, and every glimpse of Oak Creek proves more beautiful
than the last. The beauty fairly hangs from the giant, creek-side
cottonwoods and sycamores. Occasionally, we would spot a posh villa
tucked into one of the special alcoves along the way and wondered what
property along the creek would cost. At the end of Oak Creek canyon
sits the picturesque town of Sedona.

Sedona is situated in the heart of a unique, geological area that
completely mesmerized us. The resplendent scenery from downtown is a
paradox. Look one way and you view the lush riparian valley
surrounding Oak Creek. Look another and you see the fire red glow of
Sedona's spectacular buttes, mesas, spires and pinnacles. This is
truly a city with unbelievable topography, marked by these extreme
contrasts in form and color.

In Sedona we took one of the Pink Jeep tours to an ancient ruin. On
the way the Pink Jeep traveled through spectacular canyon lands with
towering red rock monoliths. We ended up at a 700-year old cliff
dwelling where Jeff and Kathryn really got into exploring the vestiges
of these old ruins. We got to see where dozens of Western Movies were
filmed. The massive red rock formations made spectacular western
backdrops for these movies. After two hours riding in the back of
this jeep down dirt roads we are covered with red dust. We were all
laughing about the good time we were having and how our mouths were
full of grit.

Once back in Sedona we head to the Cowboy Club Restaurant for some
"High Desert Cuisine". Jeff and Kathryn joined us in our quest to
"taste test" specialties endemic to the communities we visit. Several
locals told us that the Cowboy Club was the place to go to experience
local dishes. We ordered Buffalo Brochette with cilantro flat bread &
southwestern peanut sauce. The buffalo brochette was ok but nothing
special. The cilantro bread was as different and unique as it was
good. Joyce is a peanut butter freak. However, her experience is
with peanut butter and jelly. She did not particularly like the
strong flavor of the peanut sauce. No one else though it was special
and most of it went uneaten. Our next experience was a dish they
called "Sonora Fries". Sonora fries are cactus strips lightly
battered and flash fried. All of us agreed that the fried cactus
strips were great. This makes the second time Joyce and I have eaten
cactus strips. The last time was in a Mexican restaurant in Beaumont,
Texas where they cooked the cactus strips like green beans. They were
good like that as well. Our next culinary experience was BBQ Snake
Brochette with "caramelized black bean dip/gravy". We ate the BBQ
snake but it is not anything any of us would order again. We have all
eaten fried rattle snake and found it to be good. I tried the black
bean dip and told the girls it was chocolate. They both tried it
thinking that it was chocolate. Both Joyce and Kathryn let me know in
no uncertain terms that it was not chocolate. Every once in a while I
am able to pull off a good one and that was a winner. The Cowboy Club
Restaurant was the hangout for the movie stars that made over 70
western movies in the area. On the wall was a humongous set of
bullhorns. I asked if they were real and was assured they were. In
fact they are 6 inches short of a world record for length. The girth
of these horns equaled the world record. Jeff and Kathryn treated us
to this smorgasbord. Thanks kids!

After eating we headed toward Jerome. Although we had all intentions
of getting to Jerome time caught up with us since we wanted to ride
the Verde Canyon Railroad leaving from Clarkdale at 5:30pm. The Verde
Canyon Railroad was constructed in 1912 to carry the copper oar from
Jerome to the United Verde Copper Company smelter in the town of
Clarkdale. The smelter remained in operation until 1953 when it was
closed by it's present owner, Phelps Dodge. Our 4-hour train ride
covers 20 miles up the track to Perkinsville where the engine unhooks
and reconnects to take us back to the start. Our 5:30pm trip is only
offered during the full moon nights in May and June.

It is starting to get cool. As we leave the station we can see
Jerome, about half way up the side of the mountain. Shortly the train
passes through the old slag dump. Slag is part of the waste material
from the smelter and was actually poured here in a molten state. We
can see where rusted iron pipes and sheet iron originally formed a
barrier to keep the molten slag from covering the tracks. Passing
through this slag reminds me of a road cut on the interstate since the
slag is much higher than the top of the railroad cars. The molten
slag cooled into the very hard material it is now. This mountain of
slag covers about 40 acres, and averages 40 feet in depth. It is the
result of almost 40 years of mining and smelting.

Later the train passes a series of cliff dwellings clinging to the
walls of the canyon, almost halfway up the face. It is thought that
these dwellings were occupied between A.D. 1100 and 1125. A black
area of one ruin remains visible as testimony to where these people
cooked. In the riparian area along the Verde River are many large
cottonwood, sycamore, willow, walnut and sycamore trees. Bald eagles
circle high overhead, then we pass an eagle nest high on the canyon
wall across from the train. Ocotillo and prickly pear cactus along
with juniper, mesquite and creosote bush are visible in the dryer
areas. Along the way we are able to see many geological phenomenon. A
formation geologist refer to as a "monocline" where sandstone, which
was laid down in horizontal layers, is tilted at a sharp angle with
the layers standing almost on end is easily visible. When viewing the
layers of sandstone it is easy to see where the layers break creating
what geologists call a "fault". Then there are bends where the layers
are "bent" but not broken.

On the way we pass Sycamore Canyon often called "little Grand Canyon",
it is beautiful with evening light bouncing off the towering sheer red
cliffs. Several homes are visible on the river opposite the track.
These predate the establishment of the National Forest that
encompasses the area now. The narrator tells an intriguing story
about each family. These families have all been here a LONG time and
have been in a constant struggle for survival in a land of unremitting
harshness. Their tenaciousness has got to be admired and respected.
None of them have electricity or any of the other conveniences city
dwellers are accustomed to. They must be inexorably drawn to a
powerful lure of primitivism.

As the train passes the confluence of Sycamore creek and the Verde
River, the train enters the awesome Verde River Canyon. The tallest
cliffs in the canyon are around 4,800'. Around one corner the train
suddenly passes through a 680' tunnel blasted through solid limestone.
The sun is falling fast creating a symphony of blazing color and
shadows on the canyon walls. The slow moving train is winding its way
along the Verde River where lush green is visible beneath us and
spectacular pinnacles and sheer cliff walls above us.

As the train leaves the canyon, the walls drop away on both sides, and
the train emerges into the Perkinsville valley. Perkinsville valley
is beautiful with many huge cottonwood trees and old buildings. It is
here that we have a 15-minute layover as the engine disconnects and
moves to the other end of the train to haul us back to the station.
By now the sun is starting to set and we are being treated to a
beautiful sunset. As the train makes it's way back through Verde
River Canyon the red walls are ablaze with color. Then it gets dark
and we are treated to a full moon. Shortly most of us are back inside
and sleeping. It has been a long day.

It is 9:30 by the time we get back to the station and start the
70-mile trip back to Flagstaff. There is no panache left in any of
us. We are still covered with that layer of red dust from the Jeep
ride earlier in the day. Jeff put the petal to the metal all the way
back to Flagstaff and showers for all. It was dark 30 by the time we
finally got to bed. Thankfully, the temperature was heading to the
40s. We have just experienced one of the most unbelievably beautiful
places on earth. Even the most jaded traveler would have to agree
Sedona and the surrounding area is a land of exceptionally spectacular
natural beauty.

Sunday, June3, 2001
Woody Mountain Campground, Flagstaff, AZ (7,300')

This is normally a church day but Jeff and Kathryn's days with us are
limited so we again get up early and head for the hinterland east of
Flagstaff with a full days worth of sight seeing to accomplish.
Shortly after leaving Flagstaff on I-40 we see a coyote standing in
the desert to the south of us. Jeff comments on how scrawny it
looked.

Approximately 25 miles east on I-40 is Meteor Crater the
best-preserved meteorite impact site on Planet Earth. This attraction
was created by a giant iron-nickel meteoric mass, about 150' across
and weighing millions of tons, that impacted here at a speed of 45,000
mph. The impact of this meteor striking this relatively flat rocky
plain created an explosive force greater than 20 million tons of TNT.
Today, 49,000 years after the devastating impact, Meteor Crater
remains a gaping chasm 570 feet deep, nearly a mile across, and over 3
miles in circumference. It is deep enough to engulf a 60-story
building, and large enough at the floor of the crater to accommodate
20 football fields. The impact resulted in over 175 million tons of
limestone and sandstone being "blasted" out of the crater and
deposited in a continuous blanket of debris surrounding the crater for
a distance of over one mile. Fragments of rock and iron-nickel, some
as large as a few feet across, were thrown as far as several miles
away. Some of the fragments of the meteorite are on display in their
museum. According to our guide the area only gets 3 inches of rain
per year so water erosion has been negligible. The wind was blowing
in excess of 50mph and made outside strolling at the observation
platforms dicey and exciting to say the least. When viewing the large
crater you know that you are viewing something special.

Who ever complained about humidity making a "bad hair day" needs to
stand outside in 50mph winds loaded with dust and grime. I have no
idea what the temperature was. Who cares when the wind is blowing
50mph?

Our next stop is Winslow, Arizona. Winslow, Arizona's sole claim to
fame comes from the tremendously popular Eagles song where one of the
lines has the artist "standing on the corner in Winslow, Arizona when
a girl in a flat bed ford stops to take a look at me". We found the
corner and made pictures. A small park or shrine has been made on the
corner. There is a statue of a man with a guitar standing on the
corner. A building next to the corner has a bald eagle in an upper
window with a mural of a girl in a flat bed ford in a mural in the
bottom window. It was 15-minutes of laughing, posing and standing in
the middle of main street to take pictures.

Our next destination is the Petrified Forrest National Park 60-miles
to the east. Once we are close to the Petrified Forrest souvenir
shops start popping-up at every exit. We stop at one advertising the
"world's largest Petrified Tree" to get cold drinks. It is amazing
how beautiful petrified trees can be when they are buffed. Every
color in the rainbow seems to glow throughout these rocks. Once
entering the National Park we stroll through the information center
and learn much of the history behind the Petrified Forrest. It is hard
for us to visualize this high, dry tableland as a vast floodplain
crossed by many streams with large trees growing along the banks.
Fallen trees were washed by swollen streams into the floodplain, where
silt, mud and volcanic ash covered the logs. This blanket of deposits
cut off oxygen and slowed the logs' decay. Gradually, silica-bearing
ground water seeped through the logs and, bit by bit, replaced the
original wood tissues with silica deposits. As the process continued,
the silica crystallized into quartz, and the logs were preserved as
petrified wood. All this occurred about 225 million years ago in the
late Triassic Period. Since that time the area sank and became a
freshwater lake then later the area was lifted far above sea level.
This uplift created the stresses that cracked most of the giant logs.
Over time, wind and water have worn away layers of hardened sediments,
exposing the fossilized remains of these ancient trees and other
plants and animals.

The wind continues to blow over 50 miles per hour making outside
viewing of the Petrified Forrest an uncomfortable experience. We do
get outside for short times at each exhibit/viewing area but it is
uncomfortable. Jeff spots an antelope laying in a clump of grass
about 100-yards from the road and we stop to view it through our
binoculars. Next Jeff spots two babies about 20-feet from the mother.
Shortly I spot another adult antelope in another clump of bushes.
Other cars start pulling over to view the antelope when they see us
looking at them through the binoculars.

The Petrified Forrest National Park road leads into the Painted Desert
where we jump out and enjoy the vistas at each viewing area. We have
seen canyons and red-rock formations all week. These are pretty but
we are all getting satiated with canyon views. Just before exiting
the park and getting on I-40 for the trip back to Flagstaff we stop by
the old Petrified Forrest Lodge constructed by the CCC back in the
early 1930s. This lodge is architecturally like the other lodges we
have visited at Ft. Davis State Park and at the Grand Canyon. In
keeping with a southwestern theme the CCC used ponderosa pine and
aspen poles cut from Arizona forests for roofing beams and cross
beams. Mexican-style light fixtures, hand made from tin, and wooden
tables and chairs with Native American design have been preserved.
Beautiful skylight panels were hand-painted by CCC workers based on
prehistoric designs from pottery unearthed at archeological sites.
This lodge is not in use as an Inn any longer. The Inn has seen better
days. Cracks have formed in many of the walls. The foundation of the
Inn is on a seam of bentonite clay that swells and shrinks in response
to available moisture thus causing the cracks in the walls. The
famous Inn was closed during WW II but reopened with a concession
company that renovated the original CCC structure. They installed
plate glass windows placed in strategic walls to take advantage of the
magnificent views. A renowned Hopi Indian artist was hired to paint
murals on the dining room and lunchroom walls. The scenes are a
glimpse into Hopi culture. This same artist also painted murals for
the company at Grand Canyon and other locations. Visitors can only
walk through and see what "once was". Outside we take some more
pictures to document that we have visited the Painted Desert.

The wind is still howling as Jeff points our Saturn toward Flagstaff
for the 115-mile ride home.

Tonight is the night we have set aside to eat steak at Black Bart's a
renowned steak house located in an RV-Park of all places. Black
Bart's is located off I-40 at exit 198. Follow the campground signs.
Black Bart has a good thing going. It is a quality steak house with
local entertainment provided by music students from Northern Arizona
University. The students are the wait staff as well as the
entertainment. One after the other they perform for your dining
pleasure. The entertainment was good the food was good, all in all a
good dining experience. Warning, this is NOT an el-cheapo place.
Expect to pay top dollar.

On the way home we go looking for elk and find them less than a mile
from our RV-Park grazing in a pasture. We stop and take pictures.
Several of the elk had impressive racks. We were all surprised at
how close we were to them. What a way to end another wonderful day.

Monday, June 4, 2001
Woody Mountain Campground, Flagstaff, AZ (7,300')

All this fun has got to end. It is time for us to drive back to Las
Vegas. Jeff drove us strait to the Tropicana where we checked in and
headed out to experience what we had missed the night they arrived.
Actually there is not much to say about walking through gambling
casinos. We played some nickel slot machines until we got tired.
Just before we were about to leave Kathryn hit a $100 jackpot on her
machine. Since the rest of us were losing everyone felt that now was
the time to cash in and head back to the Tropicana. We were playing
the slot machines at Mandela Bay one of the newer and glitzier
Casinos. None of us are smokers. We could hardly walk through the
casino at the Tropicana without gagging. Second hand smoke was not
noticeable at Mandela Bay. We enjoyed the buffet at Excalibur. They
featured prime rib and shrimp for $9.99. It was ok but nothing to
write home about. Jeff and Kathryn are catching a 7:00am plane back
to Pensacola in the morning and are going to catch a cab to the
airport. Mike and Joyce plan to sleep in. We said our good buys
around midnight and headed to our room.

The good thing about today was the temperature. Kathryn asked someone
and was told that it was 20 degrees cooler than last Thursday when we
were last here. Those 20 degrees made all the difference in the
world.

We have since talked with Jeff and Kathryn. Delta did it to them
again. Their flight back to Pensacola via New Orleans was cancelled.
Has anyone ever been on a Delta flight that was not cancelled because
of a broken aircraft? Anyway, they were finally routed on a flight
through Atlanta then New Orleans. They arrived back in Pensacola
around 11:00pm. Flying with Delta is like having a streak of bad luck
the size of Texas!

Tuesday, June 5, 2001
Woody Mountain Campground, Flagstaff, AZ (7,300')

Mike and Joyce spent the day driving back to Flagstaff via Hoover Dam.
Once again we witnessed RV after RV on the side of the highway. Each
in his own way making a statement as to why it would be advisable for
RV's to avoid this route. If you have power to spare with cooling
system to spare and a good exhaust break go for it. Please write and
let us know about your adventure. Better yet make that recording. J

The temperature continued to drop as our altitude increased. It was
so nice to get back to Flagstaff where I had to put a sweatshirt on
before we went downtown for dinner.

Jeff and Kathryn taught us something about our motorhome that we did
not know and we want to pass it on to other RV'ers that may not know
about it. Jeff and Kathryn have taken several trips to the Bahamas
visiting the out islands with Kathryn's parents on their 45' Bertram
sports fishing yacht. Visiting out islands is major fun. However,
the out islands do not have all of the modern conveniences we are used
to. Fresh water was SCARCE on several of the islands they were
visiting. Available fresh water was captured in cisterns from rain
running off the roof. Yachts visiting these islands bring with them
all the water they need for their stay. This lack of fresh water
necessitates MAJOR CONSERVATION at shower time. They taught us that
our motorhome's showerhead, like the one on the yacht, had a button on
it that shuts off the water then with the press of that button the
water flow is returned. The button makes it nice since you do not
have to adjust the hot and cold water each time you shut it off.
Stupid me had just been shutting off the water at the faucet each time
during the wet, lather, and rinse cycles when we were boondocking and
conserving water. With us Jeff and Kathryn were using it between
showers so the other one did not have to adjust the temperature. How
many of you RV'ers were like me and did not know about that button?

Wednesday, June 6, 2001
Woody Mountain Campground, Flagstaff, AZ (7,300')

Today was our day to go through the mountain of mail Jeff and Kathryn
delivered. Two months of mail takes time to wade through. Joyce
washed clothes and I repaired a series of items. It was also a time
to work on this travelogue that was not touched while Jeff and Kathryn
were with us. Most of the time I spend 15 or 20 minutes at the end of
each day whacking out the days travelogue. It is harder this time
since I have to remember what we did a week ago. Those of you that
are in your 50s know how hard it is to remember what you had for
breakfast much less what happened a week ago. AMEN!

Thursday, June 7, 2001
Woody Mountain Campground, Flagstaff, AZ (7,300')

There is a certain serendipity to the way our day turned out. On our
way into Flagstaff Saturday a week ago our motorhome started blinking
a "service engine soon" light. We had not driven it since so there
was no reason to do anything. However, we had an appointment with a
mechanic to hook up their diagnostic equipment to it and tell us what
the bad news was. Joyce needed a haircut so she took care of that
while I attend to the motorhome.

Good news. It cost me $35.00 for them to tell me there were no codes.
That is diesel mechanic speak for "you are a lucky man". The
mechanics tell me that the computer was probably responding to the
rapid change in altitude as we transited from Phoenix at 1,000' to
Flagstaff at 7,000'. All that I needed to do was turn the ignition
off and restart the engine to reset the computer and sensors. I did
notice that the "service engine soon" warning did not come on while
driving to the shop. How nice!

Mike's two cents: If your "service engine soon" warning light comes
on and you have changed altitude significantly pull over to the side
of the road turn off your ignition then restart your diesel. The
mechanic said that changes in altitude affect the computers in
gasoline engines in the same way. According to the mechanic that I
dealt with today when you restart you engine it sets you engine
mechanisms to the new altitude. He seems to think that my engine may
have been operating based on being at 1,000 feet above sea level thus
some controls may have not been set at their optimum setting. If any
of you have any other information concerning this please feel free to
comment.

Mike & Joyce Hendrix